Barely back from our last big trip to Thailand, Tom and I found ourselves saying yes to another adventure abroad—this time to South Africa. At the southernmost tip of the African continent, South Africa is a place of striking contrasts. It’s home to extraordinary biodiversity (coastlines, mountains, bushveld) and immense natural wealth, including diamonds and gold. But just as defining is its history: a complex and often painful story shaped by early Indigenous cultures, European colonization, and the long struggle against apartheid. With 12 official languages and a wide mix of cultures, identities, and traditions, South Africa doesn’t feel like one place, but rather many, layered together.
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| April 3 - April 17 |
Day 1: Melbourne to Stellenbosch
Our trip began on the evening of Good Friday. After a busy week, it was a gift to have a full day to pack and get the house ready for the sitter. Saying goodbye to the boys never gets easier. We left Melbourne at 9pm, heading 4 hours west to Perth, then 11 hours further to Johannesburg. This is the most direct route to South Africa and much safer than flying through the Middle East at the moment.
We landed in Joburg feeling tired, but had just enough time to duck into an airport lounge—our first time, thanks to a perk of our house-sitting service. This was a much-needed reset to freshen up, eat, and charge our phones before the final 2-hour leg to Cape Town.
We picked up a rental car and headed straight for the Winelands. Driving on the left made things easy for us, but everything else felt new. Steep, dramatic mountains appeared suddenly, and I felt that familiar surge—this is why we travel. There were lots of cyclists on the winding climb, but surprisingly no traffic. I also noticed the roadside rubbish and the stark contrast between the wealth of the Winelands and the townships we’d passed leaving the airport.
Our first stop was Wildeberg—a small, off-the-beaten-path winery chosen for its selection of vegan wines and mountain views. We shared a vegan platter and tasting, easing ourselves into the trip. Franschhoek seemed charming; the kind of place you could easily linger longer.
However, we backtracked to Stellenbosch and checked into our bnb on Windon Vineyard. We didn’t realize it when we booked, but staying in the countryside instead of town turned out to be the perfect choice for us.
We laid down for a quick power nap, and woke up several hours later. Plans for another winery and dinner quietly disappeared. Sleep won. And honestly, it was exactly what we needed.
Day 2: Easter in the Winelands
On Easter Sunday, Tom and I woke early and stepped outside into the most magical sunrise. Soft light across the vines and misty mountains filled me with a profound sense of gratiude and contentment, and chased away the humdrum stresses of life.
On Easter Sunday, Tom and I woke early and stepped outside into the most magical sunrise. Soft light across the vines and misty mountains filled me with a profound sense of gratiude and contentment, and chased away the humdrum stresses of life.
Our first stop of the day was Vergelegen Estate. Founded in 1700, its name means "situated far away." The estate has passed through the hands of explorers and visionaries over centuries, each leaving a mark. We wandered through the gardens and grounds before settling into a tasting. It felt less like a winery stop and more like stepping into a piece of living history.
That afternoon, we headed to Jordan Wine Estate. Their philosophy blends New World fruit-forward styles with Old World elegance. We booked a picnic on the lawn, complete with a vegan basket, bottle of wine, and views of Table Mountain, False Bay, and the rolling hills of Stellenbosch. Early fall meant sweater-weather with crisp mornings and pleasant afternoons, maxing out at around 70 degrees—perfect in the sun, chilly in the shade.
By the end of the day, one thing was clear: wine afficionados could spend weeks in the Winelands and still only scratch the surface. We did travel a bit to reach the 3 wineries, and part of me wondered if we’d have been just as happy staying closer to our bnb. Regardless, the Windelands was a trip highlight.
That evening, we dined in town at Oude Werf Hotel. A theme that continued this trip was the lack of crowds—a perk of shoulder season that made everything feel more relaxed.
That evening, we dined in town at Oude Werf Hotel. A theme that continued this trip was the lack of crowds—a perk of shoulder season that made everything feel more relaxed.
Day 3: Kirstenbosch Botantical Garden
Fortunately, Cape Town has mountains and ocean. And with wine country less than an hour away, it really is perfectly placed. Cape Town is a port city on South Africa's southwest coast. The vibrant coastal metropolis sits on a peninsula beneath the imposing Table Mountain.
Our first stop was Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. Established in 1913, it was the first botanical garden in the world dedicated entirely to a country’s native plants. It's tucked against the eastern slopes of Table Mountain, with sweeping lawns and dense, layered greenery.
Light rain in the morning gave way to afternoon sunshine—a symptom of Cape Town’s unpredictable, Mediterranean-style climate. We also started to get a feel for the cost of things: the South African rand goes a long way day-to-day, but many attractions are clearly priced with international visitors in mind.
That afternoon, we checked into our bnb in De Waterkant. This compact pocket between Green Point, the Waterfront, and the city centre didn’t quite land for me. It felt cold and industrial. The only thing I liked was the view of Table Mountain. In hindsight, I might have been happier somewhere leafier and more residential, like Gardens or Tamboerskloof, or even further out toward Camps Bay.
Jet lag was still lingering. Early to bed, early to wake.
Day 4: Table Mountain
Tuesday was all about Table Mountain—the flat-topped sandstone icon that defines Cape Town’s skyline. Rising about 3,563 feet above sea level, it’s more than just a viewpoint. The surrounding Table Mountain National Park sits within the Cape Floral Kingdom, one of the richest floral regions on Earth, and has been awarded UNESCO World Heritage status. Table Mountain is also thought to be one of the oldest mountains in the world, with rocks dating back 600 million years.
Tom and I chose to hike up via Platteklip Gorge, the oldest and most direct route to the top. Around 8am, we parked along the roadside, between the lower cable car station and the trailhead (with the usual informal car attendants to tip—always carry some cash!). The hike is under 2 miles, but it's a steady climb of stone steps. Fortunately, it's well-maintained and well-marked.
Perfect conditions: clear skies, cool air, no wind. It took us around an hour and a half to reach the top.
We spent a couple of hours wandering once we were up there. The plateau is surprisingly expansive, with multiple trails and viewpoints. It was busy, but not overwhelming. I can imagine it’s a different story in peak summer.
After stopping for lunch and a well-earned beer in the sun, we chose the easy way down—by cable car. It required a bit of queueing, but worth it for saving my knees.
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| View of cable car and Lion's Head |
Day 5: Lion's Head + Bo-Kaap
On Wednesday, we did another popular hike: Lion's Head. We set off shortly after 8am. Easier than Table Mountain (~2.5 miles + 2 hours), but a different kind of challenge. Fewer stairs, more scrambling—some bouldering, a couple of narrow sections with ladders. Nothing too sketchy, and there’s an easier route that splits off if needed.
Clear skies again, and quickly warming up. The trail is exposed, so hydration is key (we mostly stuck to bottled water, uncertain about the tap).
The summit is a 360-degree view over the city, Table Mountain, and the coastline. It’s busiest at sunrise and sunset.
After the hike, we stopped in Bo-Kaap, a vibrant neighborhood at the foot of Signal Hill. Known for its brightly colored, flat-roofed houses and cobbled streets, it’s the cultural heart of Cape Malay heritage. Originally home to enslaved people brought from Indonesia, Malaysia, and parts of Africa, the area later became a center for Muslim communities. The brightly painted homes are said to symbolize freedom in the post-slavery era.
We visited the Bo-Kaap Museum, which adds important context: much of Cape Town was built by enslaved people, convicts, and free workers who were never fully recognized or allowed to share in the city they helped create. Even after slavery was abolished in 1838, the economy continued to rely heavily on their descendants and migrant labor.
Lunch at Faeeza’s Home Kitchen was a standout—Cape Malay cuisine and one of my favorite meals of the trip. Aside from wine, iced tea became our drink of choice. Rooibos, South Africa’s "red bush" tea, is an herbal tea popular for its sweet, woody flavor and high antioxidant content.
Parking was the only downside. Between informal car guards and unclear expectations, we ended up overpaying and briefly blocked in. Ubers are likely easier when travelling to busy areas, but we appreciated the freedom of having a car for the Winelands and the Cape Peninsula days.
Day 6: Cape Peninsula
On Thursday, Tom and I set off around 8am for a full loop of the Cape Peninsula. First stretch: Boyes Drive, winding above False Bay. Sweeping coastal views, sleepy surf towns below. Great white sharks have largely disappeared from these waters in recent years.
Our first stop was Boulders Beach. Home to a unique land-based colony of endangered African penguins, it’s set up thoughtfully with boardwalks that let you get close without disturbing them.
Penguins everywhere—adults, chicks, nests. We even spotted a few "dassies" (rock hyrax). Trip highlight!
From there, we continued south toward the Cape of Good Hope. The rocky headland is often mistaken for the southernmost point of Africa, but it's actually the southwesternmost. It was named to reflect the optimism of finding a sea route to India and is famously known as the home of legendary ghost ship, the Flying Dutchman.
We started at Cape Point, with a short walk to the lighthouse and the Lighthouse Keeper's Trail. The Atlantic and Indian Oceans mingle just off the coast, creating diverse marine life and weather.
It was hot, and my fading summer tan came back in full force.
Then we hiked the Cape Point to Cape of Good Hope Trail, a 2-mile walk along the rugged coastline with dramatic cliffs, pristine beaches, and big ocean views. The landscape reminded me of Australia.
Along the way: seals offshore, ostriches, and signs warning about baboons (which we later saw along the roadside on the way out). The area is also home to Cape mountain zebra, bontebok, and over 250 species of birds.
The reserve is big and the entrance fee substantial, so I'd recommend at least two hours here (though you could spend days).
On the return north, we passed through small coastal towns like Scarborough before stopping in Noordhoek for a late lunch at Aegir Project Brewery. This gem was vegan-friendly and a great find.
Then came Chapman's Peak Drive, or "Chappies." A renowned 6-mile coastal road carved into cliffs dropping into the Atlantic Ocean, with 114 curves and panoramic views. The mid-afternoon light was a bit harsh; sunset here would be incredible.
Then came Chapman's Peak Drive, or "Chappies." A renowned 6-mile coastal road carved into cliffs dropping into the Atlantic Ocean, with 114 curves and panoramic views. The mid-afternoon light was a bit harsh; sunset here would be incredible.
We ended the road trip at Maiden's Cove, overlooking Camps Bay.
Day 7: Camps Bay
Friday was the day before Tom's big running event. While he kicked his feet up, I headed out for a morning visit to Camps Bay. Often described as Cape Town’s "Beverly Hills," Camps Bay is famous for its palm-fringed, white sand beach, backed by the Twelve Apostles mountains. This luxurious, trendy spot on the Atlantic coast has a lively promenade with cafes and restaurants, ideal for swimming, sunbathing, and watching sunsets. The temperature was cooler than the days prior, but I still went for a refreshing dip in the natural tidal pool.
That afternoon, we walked to the bustling and commerical Waterfront, stopping to watch the sea lions swim and sunbathe in the harbor.
We grabbed a bite at the Time Out Market food hall before taking a spin on the ferris wheel.
Day 8: Two Oceans Marathon + Oranjezicht Market
Saturday was event day, and the inspriation behind the trip. The Two Oceans Marathon is an annual 56 km (34.8 mi) road race marketed as "the world’s most beautiful marathon." The circular route starts in Newlands, winding through Muizenberg and Fish Hoek, climbing the iconic Chapman’s Peak Drive, and finishing on the University of Cape Town campus. The course covers roughly 2,500 feet of elevation gain, including the challenging climbs of Chapman’s Peak and Constantia Nek.
Saturday was event day, and the inspriation behind the trip. The Two Oceans Marathon is an annual 56 km (34.8 mi) road race marketed as "the world’s most beautiful marathon." The circular route starts in Newlands, winding through Muizenberg and Fish Hoek, climbing the iconic Chapman’s Peak Drive, and finishing on the University of Cape Town campus. The course covers roughly 2,500 feet of elevation gain, including the challenging climbs of Chapman’s Peak and Constantia Nek.
We were out the door just after 4am. The city was still dark and quiet, until we neared the start of the course. After seeing Tom off, I headed back to bed for a few hours. I would have loved to cheer him on along the course, but it would have been too difficult on my own, with road closures and not knowing the area well.
Later that morning, I walked down to the Oranjezicht City Farm Market on the Waterfront. I was amazed by the beautiful stall displays: flowers, pottery, clothing, produce, baked goods—plus global street food and an endless selection of drinks.
Lively but relaxed, and a great snapshot of Cape Town’s mix of cultures. I ordered the Cape Malay dhal, which was a trip favorite.
The day was cool and cloudy, with Table Mountain draped in its "tablecloth," a dense layer of cloud spilling over the flat summit. Tom finished strong, just under 5.5 hours. His second ultra marathon completed!
