Australian Open

My journey to become a pharmacist was streamlined, and began at the tender age of 18. Since then, my interests and values have shifted. In fact, I have grown into different versions or "upgrades" of myself, based on my unique set of life experiences.

On a recent episode of the Rich Roll podcast, psychologist Michael Gervais explains how most people transform themselves four to six times as they move through life. In my case, I grew up disciplined and studious. During university, travelling and minimalism became priorities. In Colorado, I discovered passions for the outdoors and veganism. And in Oregon, I became grounded by my family unit: Tom and Louie. I wonder how I might continue to change in Australia!

Given this transformation, it is no surprise that I have moved away from a career that I began pursuing over a decade ago. I am proud and grateful for my pharmacy journey--and will perhaps return to it someday--but for now, I am excited to to transition into a space aligned with my current values: animal welfare, environmental conservation, and global health.

Changing careers is both inspiring and terrifying, and timing is everything. I timed my transition to coincide with our move abroad, and waited until I paid off my pharmacy schooling. Despite my offer of transferrable skills from a respectable profession, I received a lot of rejection. It took more than a year of applying to jobs, resume tweaking, and volunteering to finally cross paths with someone who recognized my potential and was willing to take a chance on me.

All that is to say, I am very humbled to join the small nonprofit team at Vegan Australia. My responsibility is to manage communications and campaigns as we work to end the exploitation of animals; because animals are here with us, not for us.

Now that I have secured a job, learning to do it is the next challenge! My prior work history revolved around shift work and concrete tasks. Abstract project management is new to me, so my goal is to be patient with myself over the next several months.

The position is a part-time hybrid structure, so I will continue to work intermittently at the bike shop.

Aside from a new job, January brought the Australian Open. During this annual two-week event, Melbourne Park transforms into an incredible world of food, beverages, entertainment, and 39 courts!

I'm not a massive sports fan, but I've always had a soft sport for tennis, and going to a Grand Slam tournament is pretty epic. Tom and I bought "Grounds Pass" tickets for opening day. I was impressed by the size and capacity of the park. There were plenty of hydration and sunscreen stations, as well as eco-friendly reusable cups and plates. The Grounds Pass is a great option to stroll the grounds and pop into open matches (center courts are reserved for ticket holders).

Tom and I returned to the tournament the following week for the quarter-finals. We bought tickets for the Tuesday evening session at Rod Laver Arena. Novak Djokovic (ranked #1, also plant-based) was playing in the afternoon session, so we watched from a shady spot in front of the big screen. Taylor Fritz put up a good fight, but lost in four sets. The match lasted almost four hours, so the evening session was delayed by two hours. Luckily, the women's match was quick. Aryna Sabalenka beat Barbora Krejcikovavs in two sets.

The mens match was exciting, but Jannik Sinner (#4) beat Andrey Rublev (#5) in three sets. It ended at 1:30am, which sparked conversation around potential scheduling changes for future tournaments.

Two days later, Djokovich was knocked out by Sinner in the semi-finals, and Sinner came back to win the final match after loosing the first two sets. Sabalenka won the women's singles title, so both athletes that we saw in the quarter-finals won the tournament!

Tasmania: Week Two

Day 7: Mathinna Falls
On New Year's Day, Tom and I continued north two hours to St. Helens. We stopped at St. Mary’s to explore the natural beauty surrounding this off-the-beaten path heritage town. 

Mathinna Falls is a sequence of four spectacular waterfalls totalling over 100 m. The first and most accessible waterfall is a short walk from the trailhead that leads right to the base of the falls. A steep ascent leads to the second waterfall. Getting beyond the second falls is difficult and potentially dangerous. Pack bug spray!

 

 

Back in town, we grabbed lunch before continuing on to our lodging at Panorama Hotel. By this point, we were feeling a bit tired. Traveling for two weeks is exhausting!

Day 8: Bay of Fires

Lining Tasmania’s northeast coast, the Bay of Fires is the perfect combination of white beaches, tropical waters, and granite rocks splashed in orange lichen. It was named by English navigator, Tobias Furneaux, in 1773 when he saw fires burning along the coast that were lit by Aboriginals. 

We explored various nooks and crannies around Binalong, Cosy Corner, and the Gardens. Despite the dreary weather, the turquoise-orange contrast was stunning. And the waves were fierce!

Lifebuoy Cafe was a diamond in the rough. 

Day 9: Blue Tier Giants
On Wednesday morning, Tom and I set out on a 4.5-hour journey west. While Tasmania is a small island, there are few direct routes because you're often driving around mountains or bodies of water. Fortunately, there is very little traffic.

We stopped for a short walk (1 hr, 3.2 km) in Blue Tier near Weldborough. This track passes under massive trees, including Australia's widest tree with a girth of 19.4 m! Be prepared for humidity and leaches.

 

Bridestowe Lavendar Estate grows 260 acres of French lavender–the only variety suitable for perfume and cooking. Since its beginning in 1922, the farm has been built on a philosophy of exceptional quality and innovative, efficient, and sustainable agriculture. 

 

Launceston is a cultural and gastronomic hub. It's home to a tight-knit and diverse community of winemakers, artists, distillers, designers, growers, and nature lovers from around the world. Situated at the confluence of three rivers, Cataract Gorge is the leafy heart of "Launnie." We stopped for lunch at Florence Cafe.

As we neared Cradle Valley, we ascended through farmland and forest. The temperature dropped a refreshing 15 degrees by the time we reached our bunk rooms at Discovery Parks. Similar to Freycinet, lodging at Cradle Mountain is limited and books far in advance. Also note that cell phone service is limited outside of Telestra and Optus.

Day 10: Cradle Mountain
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park spans seven of the state’s 10 highest mountains. Wildlife, alpine charms, and glacial lakes combine to form rugged beauty.

Similar to popular U.S. National Parks like Yosemite and Zion, Cradle Mountain uses a shuttle system to reduce motor traffic inside the park. Based on my research, I learned that you could drive in before the shuttle starts at 8 am. However, we arrived to the entrance shortly after 7 am to find out that there is apparently enough parking space for only 35 cars. We were car number 37. So my advice is to drive in early, or just roll up to the visitor centre at 8 am to catch the first shuttle. 

Once we arrived inside, we began our hike from Ronnie Creek. This is where the epic six-day Overland Track starts. Wombats frequent the fields around the creek from dust until dawn, although we saw a few on our way out.

 

Tom and I climbed at a brisk pace to Marion's Lookout for a terrific view of Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake. Ideal conditions.

From there, we pushed on to Cradle Mountain. The jagged summit looks daunting from afar, but it does not require technical climbing. 

However, the latter part requires boulder scrambling that should not be attempted in wet weather.

The wide summit provides 360-degree views of alpine perfection. At 1,545 m (5,069 ft) above sea level, 

Cradle Mountain is the sixth-highest mountain in Tasmania.

Instead of returning the way we came, or via Dove Lake, we followed Face Track to Hanson's Peak.

The neighbouring Mount Campbell trail was closed, so we descended to the Dove Lake circuit from Hanson's. We snapped a few lake photos around the busy lake before returning to Ronnie Creek via Lake Lila. This was a solid 20-km day hike that probably took us around six hours. Carry at least two litres of water.

The scenery at Cradle Mountain is second to none, but I would likely only return during low season. The park is relatively small, with only two major trailheads. However, we might have been unlucky in visiting on the park's busiest day to date.

After a shower and refuel, we visited the conservation sanctuary, Devils @ Cradle. You can go anytime with a general admission ticket, but we booked into the 8:30 pm feeding session tour. The sanctuary is part of a breeding program to prevent the extinction of devils. They are endangered from a contagious disease that has no treatment. Fortunately, there is a vaccine in the pipeline, which would allow captive devils to be reintroduced in the wild.

Tasmanian devils are the largest carnivorous marsupial, and have the strongest jaw per body size across the entire animal kingdom. The devils live only five years, breeding annually at ages two, three, and four with a cap of four joeys per pouch. They regulate the ecosystem by controlling the wallaby population, and are effective scavengers, often cleaning up the bones left behind by other predators. They are endurance runners (vs sprinters), and rely on their sense of smell for hunting; they cannot climb and have poor eyesight. Especially when feeding, they vocalise in a range of shrieks and growls. 

 

The sanctuary is also home to the closely related spotted-tail and eastern quolls. The spotted-tail quoll is a powerful hunter that is resistant to snake venom. They are endangered due to habitat loss from the logging industry. Tasmania’s three largest carnivorous marsupials are all now threatened in the wild.

Pademelons are the most common marsupial in Tassie. Sadly we saw many on the side of the road. Wombats, most closely related to the koala, are furry waddlers that have 30-year lifespans. The elusive platypus is not a marsupial, but inhabit the area along with their closest relative, the echidna. 

 

Prior to extinction, Tasmanian tigers were the largest carnivorous marsupial. These curious striped animals had once roamed across Australia and Papua New Guinea. Early European farmers blamed animal losses on the tigers, even if evidence pointed elsewhere. In 1888, the government began incentivising the killing of them. The last known Tasmanian tiger died in 1936, and the species was declared extinct in 1986. It makes me sad to wonder which of today's species will become extinct before future generations get to meet them.

Day 11: Mount Field National Park
On Friday morning, Tom and I drove 4.5 hours southeast. The drive out of Cradle Mountain was lush and mountainous. We stopped to stretch our legs at Nelson Falls. This short walk follows a burbling river to an impressive set of waterfalls. The mossy forest, featuring sassafras, myrtle, and a variety of ferns, hints at the high rainfall in this area. 

 

For lunch, we ate at the Possum Shed Cafe. Westerway is abundant with fruit and flower farms.

Just a few minutes away is Mount Field National Park. Across its base, waterfalls pour through cool-temperate rainforest, while high above are dramatic peaks dotted with glacial lakes and classically Tasmanian alpine plants like pandani, scoparia, pineapple grass, and cushion plants. The park is, with Freycinet, the state's oldest national park. In winter it transforms into one of Tassie's two ski fields.

The Three Falls Circuit (2 hrs, 6 km) winds through the base of the park. Travelling clockwise, Lady Barron Falls is first.  

  

The track continues through the Tall Trees section. As we saw in Blue Tier, Tasmania has some of the world’s tallest and oldest forests. Eucalyptus regnans (Latin for "to reign"), also known as "mountain ash" or "swamp gums," are Australia’s tallest trees. They grow up to 100 m in height, and are the second tallest flowering plant in the world. 

 

Horseshoe Falls is next. All three falls on this track are composed of marine Permian siltstone, faced by retreating sandstone layers. The final stop is famous Russell Falls. Nearby recesses are lit with glow-worms at night.

 

We spent the evening nearby in a cozy, riverside yurt. This was the only place where we stayed one night instead of two, and wished we had more time to explore the southwest part of the island.

Day 12: Mount Wellington

Mount Field is just under two hours west of Hobart. Before we reached town, we drove to the summit of Mount Wellington (kunanyi). For Hobartians, "the mountain" is part of daily life; a place to walk, ride bikes, play in the snow, just 30 minutes from the city centre. Towering 1,271 m above the city, the summit affords sweeping views across southern Tasmania. 

At the base of the mountain, we stopped for drinks at Sullivan's Cove Distillery and Cascade Brewery. Then we dropped our bags at our final bnb and returned our rental car. On the walk back to Sandy Bay, we ate lunch at the buzzing Salamanca Market. With over 300 stallholders every Saturday, it is the best place to find local and handmade products. 

 

That evening, we met our friend Kevin at the final night of Taste of Tasmania.

Day 13: Sea Kayaking

On Sunday, we booked into a sea kayaking tour of the Tasman Peninsula. Our guides drove us to Fortescue Bay, where we unloaded the kayaks and gear. Damian and Sarah shared instructions and explained our route. Due to the windy conditions, we did not paddle out to Cape Huay. Instead, we explored the neighbouring bays. There we spotted a family of white-bellied sea eagles.

I enjoyed the experience of navigating big ocean waves. We also had a really fun group. However, I was disappointed that the conditions did not allow us to maximise our time on the water. Back in Hobart, we shared out last supper at Solo.

On Monday morning, Tom and I caught our flight back to Melbourne. We loved our time in Tasmania, and are eager to return. Even after two busy weeks, there is so much more to explore!

Tasmania: Week One

On Boxing Day, Tom and I embarked on a two-week tour of Tasmania–an Australian island state located 240 km south of Victoria. "Tassie" contains some of the most spectacular mountain, lake, and coastal scenery in the country. In fact, much of its land is protected in national parks and reserves. A small industrial sector reduces the level of pollution, so the air is clean, but the UV index is high.

In 1642, the first European to visit was Abel Tasman. Similar to the mainland, Tasmania's dark past involving the First Nations has been largely ignored; Acknowledgement of Country is now used to recognise the Aboriginals.

26 Dec - 8 Jan

Day 1: Hobart

The ferry across the Bass Strait from Melbourne is a 10-hour journey. Since we don't have a car, Tom and I opted for the one-hour flight to Hobart. We arrived Tuesday morning, and dropped our bags at the bnb in Sandy Bay. Nearby is Battery Point, a historic district with narrow lanes and colonial-era cottages. Coffee at Ozus.

Tasmania's capital is framed by the distinct figure of Mount Wellington and the flow of the wide River Derwent. At historic Salamanca Place, old sandstone warehouses host galleries and cafes. Lunch at The Whaler.

That afternoon, we walked to the Royal Tasmania Botanic Gardens–Australia’s premier cool climate garden. The gardens feature a special selection of Tasmanian native plants, many of them rare and threatened species. A significant collection of heritage trees from the 19th century are found here, plus a subantarctic plant house with the flora of Macquarie Island. 

 

We shared an Italian dinner at Maldini.

  =

Day 2: Bruny Island
Wednesday was another hot and sunny day–perfect for a day trip to Bruny Island. Located off the coast of Hobart, Bruny is a popular holiday spot for beach-goers and food lovers. Local producers specialise in oysters, cheese, honey, cherries, whisky, and chocolate. The island is home to wales, dolphins, penguins, birds, and white wallabies. With only 800 residents, Bruny hosts up to 4,000 visitors a day during high season! 

 

Our tour group collected us in the morning, driving first to catch the 20-minute ferry from Kettering. Bruny is effectively two islands–North and South Bruny–bound together by a narrow isthmus called "The Neck." Similar to Hobart, North Bruny is drier because the southwest part of the island gets the brunt of the storms. 

In contrast, South Bruny is a lush rainforest with tropical landscapes scattered through South Bruny National Park. Cloudy Bay Lagoon is a great spot for swimming, paddling, and surfing.

The Mavista Nature Walk enters a shaded gully filled with ancient and enchanting forest. We walked under towering stringybarks, blackwoods, treeferns, and a variety of understory species (myrtle beech, sassafras, pepper berry).

 

Blessed by the long summer days, we had plenty of time after the tour to walk to the waterfront for the first day of Taste of Tasmania. This annual event celebrates the local food and drink scene, and coincides with the Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. With 628 nautical miles of salt, sweat, and stamina, the "Sydney to Hobart" is one of the world's toughest and most prestigious yacht races. Since its inception in 1945, the race starts from Sydney Harbour on Boxing Day, and proceeds over the following three to four days. Winners usually cross the finish line in under 48 hours. Hobart locals and visitors line the shores as the leading yachts sail into Sullivans Cove.

Day 3: Mona
On Thursday, Tom and I picked up our rental car and drove upriver to Mona (Museum of Old and New Art). The unique underground museum looms large in global art circles and on the itineraries of scores of travellers. Mona's subterranean architecture showcases the highlights (and lowlights) of David Walsh’s $110m private collection of art and antiquities, as well as hosting a busy exhibitions program. 

Mona is home to the Moorilla winery, two restaurants, several bars, and accomodation. Each January, the summer festival, Mona Foma, unleashes an eclectic mix of music and art. Come June, the Dark Mofo winter festival delves into centuries-old winter solstice rituals, and celebrates the dark through art, music, food, film, light, and noise. 

Danny Healy composes two pieces of jazz music
by hand everyday to be performed that afternoon.

That afternoon, we drove an hour and a half to the Tasman Peninsula (Turrakana). A light rain came through as we crossed Eaglehawk Neck. Here we stopped to admire the natural wonder of the Tessellated Pavement. The tiled rocks are a stunning sight formed mostly of siltstone that formed 300 million years ago. The rocks were fractured by the movement of the Earth, and resulted in "jointing." Jointing is not incredibly uncommon, but the presence of salt crystals and consistent erosion by the Tasman Sea’s waves and sediment deepened the pattern to give its startling appearance. Much time could be spent here experimenting with light levels and tidal patterns.

Afterwards, we checked into our bnb on a beautiful farm in Premaydena. The small peninsula has few dining options, but we grabbed dinner at Fox and Hounds.

Day 4: Cape Raoul

With soaring sea cliffs and monumental rock formations, Tasman National Park is a coastal wonderland. Covering much of the rugged coastline of the Tasman Peninsula, it features 300-m cliffs, and a curious collection of geological oddities.

The park is the setting for the Three Capes Track and a host of other walks that bring hikers to the edge of sheer drops overlooking deep chasms, surging seas, islands, white-sand beaches, and a waterfall that tumbles down a steep cliff face into the sea.

Cape Raoul is one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. What starts as a pleasant bushwalk transforms into a climb through open forest, and ultimately across the cape to a cliff edge. Here the dolerite cape drops dramatically into the ocean. Keep an eye out for seals and climbers on the rocks and small islands below.​ 

Give yourself five hours for this 14-km trip, and pack sunscreen and bug spray. We encountered relatively few people.

That evening, we enjoyed a home-cooked pasta dinner.

Day 5: Port Arthur
On a rainy Saturday morning we decided to check out nearby Port Arthur–Tasmania’s most famous convict settlement. After the American War of Independence, Britain could no longer send convicts to America, so after 1788 they were transported to the Australian colonies. "Van Diemens Land" was the colonial name for Tassie, and Port Arthur became a punishment station for repeat male offenders. Flogging was the main method of punishment used there, although new ideas of reform were introduced that centred on labor, education, and religion.

More than 30 buildings and ruins (bush fires) dot the heritage site, ranging from a large penitentiary, which was originally constructed as a flour mill, to a roofless church built by convicts. Sombre scenes such as the isolation cells of the Separate Prison are contrasted by the neat homes and gardens of the settlement of civil employees, soldiers, and free settlers from the post-convict era. The impressive grounds include symmetric gardens, English oaks, and New Zealand Christmas trees (lots of red flowers predict a good new year). Watch out for Wallaby poo!

Entry tickets include a walking tour (highly recommend) and a short harbour cruise. The cruise offers glimpses of the Isle of the Dead and Point Puer, where more than 3,000 boys were imprisoned in Britain’s first purpose-built prison for children.

That afternoon, we drove three hours north along the east coast to the seaside holiday town of Bicheno. We sampled the local wines along the way at Freycinet Vineyard. That evening, we dined at Food & Brew. On the walk back to the bnb, we stopped at the Blowhole during low tide.

Day 6: Freycinet National Park
Occupying most of the Freycinet Peninsula, Freycinet National Park features granite peaks, secluded bays, white sandy beaches, and abundant wildlife. Walks lead to pristine bays and beaches, where the clear waters beckon for swimming, snorkelling, and kayaking.

Tom and I began Sunday with a hike to Wineglass Bay and Hazards Beach. This 11-km trek continues past the Wineglass Bay Lookout, and down onto the sands of Wineglass Bay. Tasmania’s most famous beach forms a perfect white curve beneath the Hazards mountains. The return journey crosses the isthmus to Hazards Beach and rounds the coast beneath the Hazards. 

 

From the same trailhead, we tackled a more challenging climb to Mount Amos. It’s a short (3.6 km) but steep track on granite slabs that requires scrambling, and should not be attempted in wet conditions. From the summit, views extend down into Wineglass Bay and across the Freycinet Peninsula. Plan for at least two hours.

My recommendation is to tackle Mount Amos in the morning, then enjoy the rest of the afternoon at Wineglass Bay. The two-day Freycinet Peninsula Circuit would also be a great option.

We ate lunch at Frecinet Lodge before a paradisiacal swim in Coles Bay. Where was everyone? 

One of our favourite days!

Back in Bicheno, we dined at French restaurant, La Coq. We celebrated New Year's Eve with a nice bottle of wine from our tasting. Cheers to 2024!