In 1642, the first European to visit was Abel Tasman. Similar to the mainland, Tasmania's dark past involving the First Nations has been largely ignored; Acknowledgement of Country is now used to recognise the Aboriginals.
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Wednesday was another hot and sunny day–perfect for a day trip to Bruny Island. Located off the coast of Hobart, Bruny is a popular holiday spot for beach-goers and food lovers. Local producers specialise in oysters, cheese, honey, cherries, whisky, and chocolate. The island is home to wales, dolphins, penguins, birds, and white wallabies. With only 800 residents, Bruny hosts up to 4,000 visitors a day during high season!
Our tour group collected us in the morning, driving first to catch the 20-minute ferry from Kettering. Bruny is effectively two islands–North and South Bruny–bound together by a narrow isthmus called "The Neck." Similar to Hobart, North Bruny is drier because the southwest part of the island gets the brunt of the storms.
The Mavista Nature Walk enters a shaded gully filled with ancient and enchanting forest. We walked under towering stringybarks, blackwoods, treeferns, and a variety of understory species (myrtle beech, sassafras, pepper berry).
On Thursday, Tom and I picked up our rental car and drove upriver to Mona (Museum of Old and New Art). The unique underground museum looms large in global art circles and on the itineraries of scores of travellers. Mona's subterranean architecture showcases the highlights (and lowlights) of David Walsh’s $110m private collection of art and antiquities, as well as hosting a busy exhibitions program.
Day 4: Cape Raoul
The park is the setting for the Three Capes Track and a host of other walks that bring hikers to the edge of sheer drops overlooking deep chasms, surging seas, islands, white-sand beaches, and a waterfall that tumbles down a steep cliff face into the sea.
Day 5: Port Arthur
On a rainy Saturday morning we decided to check out nearby Port Arthur–Tasmania’s most famous convict settlement. After the American War of Independence, Britain could no longer send convicts to America, so after 1788 they were transported to the Australian colonies. "Van Diemens Land" was the colonial name for Tassie, and Port Arthur became a punishment station for repeat male offenders. Flogging was the main method of punishment used there, although new ideas of reform were introduced that centred on labor, education, and religion.
Day 6: Freycinet National Park
Occupying most of the Freycinet Peninsula, Freycinet National Park features granite peaks, secluded bays, white sandy beaches, and abundant wildlife. Walks lead to pristine bays and beaches, where the clear waters beckon for swimming, snorkelling, and kayaking.
Tom and I began Sunday with a hike to Wineglass Bay and Hazards Beach. This 11-km trek continues past the Wineglass Bay Lookout, and down onto the sands of Wineglass Bay. Tasmania’s most famous beach forms a perfect white curve beneath the Hazards mountains. The return journey crosses the isthmus to Hazards Beach and rounds the coast beneath the Hazards.
My recommendation is to tackle Mount Amos in the morning, then enjoy the rest of the afternoon at Wineglass Bay. The two-day Freycinet Peninsula Circuit would also be a great option.
Back in Bicheno, we dined at French restaurant, La Coq. We celebrated New Year's Eve with a nice bottle of wine from our tasting. Cheers to 2024!
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| 26 Dec - 8 Jan |
Day 1: Hobart
The ferry across the Bass Strait from Melbourne is a 10-hour journey. Since we don't have a car, Tom and I opted for the one-hour flight to Hobart. We arrived Tuesday morning, and dropped our bags at the bnb in Sandy Bay. Nearby is Battery Point, a historic district with narrow lanes and colonial-era cottages. Coffee at Ozus.
Tasmania's capital is framed by the distinct figure of Mount Wellington and the flow of the wide River Derwent. At historic Salamanca Place, old sandstone warehouses host galleries and cafes. Lunch at The Whaler.
That afternoon, we walked to the Royal Tasmania Botanic Gardens–Australia’s premier cool climate garden. The gardens feature a special selection of Tasmanian native plants, many of them rare and threatened species. A significant collection of heritage trees from the 19th century are found here, plus a subantarctic plant house with the flora of Macquarie Island.
We shared an Italian dinner at Maldini.
=Wednesday was another hot and sunny day–perfect for a day trip to Bruny Island. Located off the coast of Hobart, Bruny is a popular holiday spot for beach-goers and food lovers. Local producers specialise in oysters, cheese, honey, cherries, whisky, and chocolate. The island is home to wales, dolphins, penguins, birds, and white wallabies. With only 800 residents, Bruny hosts up to 4,000 visitors a day during high season!
Our tour group collected us in the morning, driving first to catch the 20-minute ferry from Kettering. Bruny is effectively two islands–North and South Bruny–bound together by a narrow isthmus called "The Neck." Similar to Hobart, North Bruny is drier because the southwest part of the island gets the brunt of the storms.
In contrast, South Bruny is a lush rainforest with tropical landscapes scattered through South Bruny National Park. Cloudy Bay Lagoon is a great spot for swimming, paddling, and surfing.
The Mavista Nature Walk enters a shaded gully filled with ancient and enchanting forest. We walked under towering stringybarks, blackwoods, treeferns, and a variety of understory species (myrtle beech, sassafras, pepper berry).
Blessed by the long summer days, we had plenty of time after the tour to walk to the waterfront for the first day of Taste of Tasmania. This annual event celebrates the local food and drink scene, and coincides with the Sydney Hobart Yacht Race. With 628 nautical miles of salt, sweat, and stamina, the "Sydney to Hobart" is one of the world's toughest and most prestigious yacht races. Since its inception in 1945, the race starts from Sydney Harbour on Boxing Day, and proceeds over the following three to four days. Winners usually cross the finish line in under 48 hours. Hobart locals and visitors line the shores as the leading yachts sail into Sullivans Cove.
On Thursday, Tom and I picked up our rental car and drove upriver to Mona (Museum of Old and New Art). The unique underground museum looms large in global art circles and on the itineraries of scores of travellers. Mona's subterranean architecture showcases the highlights (and lowlights) of David Walsh’s $110m private collection of art and antiquities, as well as hosting a busy exhibitions program.
Mona is home to the Moorilla winery, two restaurants, several bars, and accomodation. Each January, the summer festival, Mona Foma, unleashes an eclectic mix of music and art. Come June, the Dark Mofo winter festival delves into centuries-old winter solstice rituals, and celebrates the dark through art, music, food, film, light, and noise.
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| Danny Healy composes two pieces of jazz music by hand everyday to be performed that afternoon. |
That afternoon, we drove an hour and a half to the Tasman Peninsula (Turrakana). A light rain came through as we crossed Eaglehawk Neck. Here we stopped to admire the natural wonder of the Tessellated Pavement. The tiled rocks are a stunning sight formed mostly of siltstone that formed 300 million years ago. The rocks were fractured by the movement of the Earth, and resulted in "jointing." Jointing is not incredibly uncommon, but the presence of salt crystals and consistent erosion by the Tasman Sea’s waves and sediment deepened the pattern to give its startling appearance. Much time could be spent here experimenting with light levels and tidal patterns.
Afterwards, we checked into our bnb on a beautiful farm in Premaydena. The small peninsula has few dining options, but we grabbed dinner at Fox and Hounds.
Day 4: Cape Raoul
With soaring sea cliffs and monumental rock formations, Tasman National Park is a coastal wonderland. Covering much of the rugged coastline of the Tasman Peninsula, it features 300-m cliffs, and a curious collection of geological oddities.
The park is the setting for the Three Capes Track and a host of other walks that bring hikers to the edge of sheer drops overlooking deep chasms, surging seas, islands, white-sand beaches, and a waterfall that tumbles down a steep cliff face into the sea.
Cape Raoul is one of Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks. What starts as a pleasant bushwalk transforms into a climb through open forest, and ultimately across the cape to a cliff edge. Here the dolerite cape drops dramatically into the ocean. Keep an eye out for seals and climbers on the rocks and small islands below.
Give yourself five hours for this 14-km trip, and pack sunscreen and bug spray. We encountered relatively few people.
That evening, we enjoyed a home-cooked pasta dinner.
Day 5: Port Arthur
On a rainy Saturday morning we decided to check out nearby Port Arthur–Tasmania’s most famous convict settlement. After the American War of Independence, Britain could no longer send convicts to America, so after 1788 they were transported to the Australian colonies. "Van Diemens Land" was the colonial name for Tassie, and Port Arthur became a punishment station for repeat male offenders. Flogging was the main method of punishment used there, although new ideas of reform were introduced that centred on labor, education, and religion.
More than 30 buildings and ruins (bush fires) dot the heritage site, ranging from a large penitentiary, which was originally constructed as a flour mill, to a roofless church built by convicts. Sombre scenes such as the isolation cells of the Separate Prison are contrasted by the neat homes and gardens of the settlement of civil employees, soldiers, and free settlers from the post-convict era. The impressive grounds include symmetric gardens, English oaks, and New Zealand Christmas trees (lots of red flowers predict a good new year). Watch out for Wallaby poo!
Entry tickets include a walking tour (highly recommend) and a short harbour cruise. The cruise offers glimpses of the Isle of the Dead and Point Puer, where more than 3,000 boys were imprisoned in Britain’s first purpose-built prison for children.
That afternoon, we drove three hours north along the east coast to the seaside holiday town of Bicheno. We sampled the local wines along the way at Freycinet Vineyard. That evening, we dined at Food & Brew. On the walk back to the bnb, we stopped at the Blowhole during low tide.
Day 6: Freycinet National Park
Occupying most of the Freycinet Peninsula, Freycinet National Park features granite peaks, secluded bays, white sandy beaches, and abundant wildlife. Walks lead to pristine bays and beaches, where the clear waters beckon for swimming, snorkelling, and kayaking.
From the same trailhead, we tackled a more challenging climb to Mount Amos. It’s a short (3.6 km) but steep track on granite slabs that requires scrambling, and should not be attempted in wet conditions. From the summit, views extend down into Wineglass Bay and across the Freycinet Peninsula. Plan for at least two hours.
My recommendation is to tackle Mount Amos in the morning, then enjoy the rest of the afternoon at Wineglass Bay. The two-day Freycinet Peninsula Circuit would also be a great option.
We ate lunch at Frecinet Lodge before a paradisiacal swim in Coles Bay. Where was everyone?
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| One of our favourite days! |
Back in Bicheno, we dined at French restaurant, La Coq. We celebrated New Year's Eve with a nice bottle of wine from our tasting. Cheers to 2024!
