Blue Mountains

Victoria observes an annual holiday in early November for the Melbourne Cup, a controversial horse race often criticized for its cruel and abusive practices. Taking advantage of the long weekend, Tom and I booked a trip to Sydney's Blue Mountains.

On Friday afternoon, we left the cats in the care of our trusted house sitters and hopped on a one-hour flight to Sydney. Upon landing, we picked up a rental car and drove 40 minutes to Sydney's northern beaches. We checked into our B&B in Freshwater, a small suburb next to Manly. After settling in, we enjoyed dinner nearby at Stowaway Bar.

November 1 - 5

Saturday: Sydney

We eased into Saturday with coffee with our lovely hosts, Christian and Mark. Sydney is known for its beautiful weather, so we were unlucky to experience a dreary and cool day with scattered showers. It was one of those rare weekends when the weather was actually better in Melbourne! Tom and I joked that it must be the "rain tax" for all the good weather we've had on recent trips.

Undeterred, we donned our rain jackets and set off on foot, walking along Freshwater and Manly beaches. Sydney is a very active city—people are out early, running, cycling, surfing, and doing every other sport that you can think of. 

Manly, in particular, is somewhere I’d love to explore more in the future.

Getting caught in the rain, we made our way to Manly Wharf. The 20-minute ferry ride to Circular Quay is part of the public transport system—fast, affordable, and incredibly scenic. A bit like Seattle in that respect.

I briefly visited Sydney with my girlfriends back in 2019, but this was Tom's first time so we were keen to hit the main attractions. We started with the Opera House Tour. 

Only 51 years old, the Opera House opened in 1973. Danish architect, Jørn Utzon, designed it around the natural cliffs of Bennelong Point. One million white tiles cover its iconic sails, meant to reflect the colors of the sky.

The building houses seven venues, including the Concert Hall, which has natural acoustics created by its wood-lined interior. We were fortunate to peek in on a rehearsing symphony, which was using the Grand Organ—the largest mechanical pipe organ ever built!

In the Joan Sutherland Theatre, we watched a crew "bump out" the set from a recent production, clearing space for the next touring show. Our guide was explained how the Concert Hall is designed with acoustics in mind, while the Theatre draws the eye to the visual experience on stage.

Return visit pinned for a symphony or opera!

After the tour, we strolled through the Royal Botanic Garden and grabbed a bite to eat. Every October and November, pockets of Sydney bloom in a sea of purple as the brilliant jacaranda trees flower.

Then we made our way to the famous Sydney Harbour Bridge. The Pylon Lookout & Museum includes a fascinating history of the bridge, from its conception and construction to the excitement surrounding its opening. 

The view from the top of the pylon offers panoramic views of the harbor.

The Rocks is a historic neighbourhood of cobbled laneways in the shadow of the bridge. Locals and tourists mingle at the open-air markets, purchasing street food and handmade fashion. The area is home to some of Sydney’s oldest pubs as well as upscale restaurants. On the recommendation of Tom's colleague, we enjoyed cocktails at Maybe Sammy—not just a bar, but an experience.

 

That evening, we took the ferry back to Manly. Dinner at Little Pearl, a relaxed bar with ocean views.

Sunday: Grand Canyon Track

The Blue Mountains National Park begins just 50 km (about an hour) west of Sydney. It is part of the Great Dividing Range, with dramatic valleys and towering cliffs. The steep sandstone landscape reaches 1,189 m (3,901 ft) at its highest point and is home to several protected species, lush rainforest microclimates, and stunning waterfalls.

Tom and I drove up from Sydney in the morning, stopping for a hike near Blackheath. The Grand Canyon Track is a 6-km trail that dives deep into the canyon, winding past waterfalls and ferns along a series of narrow stairs and ledges. 

 

It's one of the most popular walks in the park, but it wasn't overly crowded during our visit.

 

We hiked the loop counterclockwise to end at Evan's Lookout with breathtaking views of the Grose Valley. If you have the time and energy, I recommend combining the Grand Canyon Track with the Cliff Top Track, or at least driving to Govetts Leap Lookout.

After the hike, we stopped for lunch in Katoomba, the main town in the Blue Mountains. We refueled at Italian pizza bar, Rustico. 

Then we checked into our charming B&B in Wentworth Falls. We really knocked it out of park with accommodation on this trip. 

 

The area was alive with the vibrant spring blooms and sweet melodies of birdsong—interrupted only by the deafening chorus of cicadas. It seemed that we'd timed our visit with their noisy return to the Blue Mountains, emerging after seven years underground!

Monday: Grand Cliff Top Walk

The Grand Cliff Top Walk is an 18-km thru-hike from Wentworth Falls to Katoomba. It's a great way to experience the Blue Mountains’ top hits in one spectacular walk.

Tom and I set out early to beat the forecasted storms, picking up the trail from our B&B. A mild descent leads to the cliff edge, offering sweeping views of the valleys below.

From there, it's a continuous series of lookouts along rolling hills (trekking poles recommended). We had the trail almost entirely to ourselves, assuming most people were at work—after all, the Victorian public holiday doesn't extend to New South Wales.

Along the way, we came across our first wild lyrebirds, known for their striking tail feathers and remarkable ability to mimic sounds from their environment.

 

We took a short detour to Empress Falls, which has the perfect swimming hole on a hot day.

 

Many people complete this trek over two days, staying overnight near Gordon Falls in the village of Leura. This is a great way to explore the side trails at a leisurely pace.

 

The trail grew busier as we neared Katoomba, particularly around Echo Point Lookout, where crowds gather to see the Three Sisters rock formation.

The trail ends at Scenic World, a family-run attraction featuring the world’s steepest passenger train and a scenic skyway.

From Scenic World, it's a 2-km walk, or a short bus ride, to the Katoomba train station. After grabbing a bite from Jords Sandwich Bar, we boarded the train back to Wentworth Falls.

The Grand Cliff Top Walk was a highlight of our trip. If I were to do it again, I’d recommend starting at Scenic World to tackle the crowded areas early on, leaving the quieter stretches for the second half of the hike. And definitely consider spreading it across two days!

For dinner, we returned to Katoomba to dine at the Bowery, located inside a historic church. Sublime Point Lookout for sunset.

 

The rain rolled in on Tuesday, so we packed up and took a scenic drive along the northern edge of the park before heading back to Sydney for our afternoon flight.