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| 24 Dec - 29 Dec |
Similar to the south Pacific islands, international tourists flock to Queensland during the wet season/summer (northern winter), while Australians—especially from cooler states like Victoria and Tasmania—prefer to visit during the dry season/winter.
Day 1: Airlie Beach
On Christmas Eve, Tom and I left Louie and Sylvio in the care of house sitters and caught a 3-hour flight to Airlie Beach. We landed Tuesday afternoon, with Queensland running an hour behind Victoria since it doesn't observe daylight savings. Stepping off the plane, we were greeted by a wave of humidity, with temperatures soaring to 35°C (95°F). From the small airport at Proserpine, we booked a shuttle for the short drive to Airlie Beach.
Nestled between the rainforest-clad hills of Conway National Park and the endless blues of the Coral Sea, Airlie Beach is the mainland hub of the Whitsundays. This vibrant tropical town is a gateway to the famous islands but also a destination in its own right, with a lively atmosphere and picturesque coastal setting.
We checked into our accommodation at Airlie Guest House. Although Airlie is a tourist town, we weren’t sure how many shops or restaurants would remain open over the holidays, so we made a quick stop at the local supermarket to pick up groceries for the next few days.
That evening, Tom and I strolled along the main street, which was alive with a mix of restaurants, bars, shops, and backpacker hostels. We stopped for dinner at Eastwoods, an Asian-fusion restaurant with a beach vibe.
Walking back to the guest house, we noted how early the sun set. Airlie is closer to the equator than Melbourne, where daylight hours vary more dramatically with the seasons.
Day 2: Honeyeater Lookout Walk
Wednesday was Christmas! The temperature had cooled slightly to 30°C (85°F) with a pleasant breeze. In the humid climate, we felt perpetually thirsty, sluggish, and damp. Still, for wet season, we were incredibly lucky with the weather (having paid the "rain tax" on our recent Sydney trip).
We began the day with the Honeyeater Lookout Walk, an 8-km trek in Conway National Park that’s especially popular at sunrise and sunset. The trail was quiet, and it took us about an hour each way to complete. The lookout rewarded us with a nice view of the coastline and rainforest.
Back at the guest house, we made sandwiches for lunch. That afternoon, I explored the Bicentennial Walking Track, a scenic coastal boardwalk connecting Airlie Beach to Cannonvale. Along the way, many families soaked up the festive atmosphere at Airlie Beach Lagoon, an oceanfront public swimming pool with free entry. I went for a quick dip to cool off, though the warm, bath-like water wasn’t particularly refreshing. Still, it’s a much safer option than swimming in the ocean this time of year.
From October to May, Airlie’s tropical waters become home to two species of venomous jellyfish. These stingers are particularly common near the coast, mangroves, and estuaries. Irukandji jellyfish, though tiny and nearly invisible, can deliver a serious sting, though fatalities are rare. Box jellyfish, on the other hand, are larger, with long tentacles and a distinctive "box-like" body. Their sting is far more dangerous and can be life-threatening. Fortunately, Boathaven Beach has a roped-off swimming area to keep swimmers safe during stinger season.
That evening, Tom and I made a simple veggie pasta dinner. If we’d had more time, we might have visited Cedar Creek Falls, a nearby waterfall and swimming hole.
Day 3: Sailing - Hook Island
On Thursday morning, Tom and I walked to the Coral Sea Marina to begin a 3-day, 2-night sailing trip with Prosail. With minimal experience on sailboats, we were excited to join a guided tour in one of the world’s premier sailing destinations.
The Whitsunday Islands were formed after the last ice age when rising sea levels submerged the coastal mountain range, leaving behind 74 individual islands. Today, they make up Australia’s largest offshore island chain, known for their natural beauty and pristine waters.
Our vessel, the Hammer, was originally built in 1987 and refitted in 2023. Stretching 22.5 m (73'), it features 2 toilets and dormitory-style cabins below deck with a mix of single and double beds. Upon arrival, our crew—Jesse, Dylan, and Karmin—welcomed a group of 22 guests, mostly young travelers from Europe.
Under Jesse’s direction, we set sail toward the northern coast of Hook Island. I was buzzing with excitement as the turquoise waters stretched endlessly before us.
For lunch, Karmin prepared burgers, fueling us for an active afternoon of snorkeling at Cockatoo Point and Manta Ray Bay. We always donned stinger suits before entering the water—a mildly annoying process, but one that offered protection from not only stingers, but also the sun. It was another hot and sunny day, so hydration and sunscreen were essential.
Back on board, I quickly adjusted to boat life, accepting the inevitability that everything would be damp and stinky for the next few days. It was a good exercise in letting go of control and stepping outside my comfort zone. Overnight sailing, I realized, is essentially camping on the water.
At sunset, we anchored at Hook Passage, a serene spot between Hook Island and Whitsunday Island. We enjoyed another delicious meal, accompanied by cold beverages.
A new moon made the stars especially bright and clear. Eventually, Tom and I crawled into our bunk below deck. It was hot and a bit claustrophobic, but the gentle rocking of the boat lulled us to sleep.
As I drifted off, I thought of Captain James Cook, the British explorer who first sailed through this island chain in 1770. Charting the coastline as part of his mission to "discover" Australia for the rest of the world, Cook named the islands after Whit Sunday, a Christian holiday. What Cook didn’t realize, however, was that it was actually Whit Monday, as he’d crossed the international date line at the 180th meridian of longitude.
Day 4: Sailing - Whitehaven Beach
We awoke on Friday to calm, glassy waters—ideal for developing sea legs, but not windy enough for sailing. Instead, Jesse fired up the motor and took us to Whitsunday Island, where we came ashore at Tongue Bay.
From there, we hiked to the Hill Inlet Lookout for the iconic view of Whitehaven Beach. Unique tidal patterns create the swirling layers of sand (we arrived at high tide). The sand is 98.9% silica, giving it its brilliant white color and ultra-fine, powdery texture. As a result, the sand reflects the sun's rays and doesn’t retain heat, so the sand stays cool underfoot. It's also antibacterial!
I was surprised to learn that the fifth Pirates of the Caribbean movie was filmed here. Filmmakers transformed the set to resemble the Caribbean by flying in palm trees, which don’t naturally grow on the island. After filming, the trees were donated to Airlie Beach. It was during this production that Johnny Depp made headlines by illegally bringing his dogs into Australia.
After soaking in the views, we made our way down to explore Whitehaven Beach and neighboring Betty's Beach. While wading in the shallows, we spotted a stingray and reef shark!
As the day wound down, we motored around the southern end of Whitsunday Island and anchored at Cid Harbour—ideal for mooring but not swimming due to its history of shark attacks. The sunset was another show-stopper. The mosquitos emerged after dinner, but I felt grateful for another unforgettable day in paradise.
Day 5: Sailing - South Molle Island
Saturday started with another windless morning, so after breakfast, Jesse motored us to South Molle Island. The island's abandoned resort is a stark reminder of Cyclone Debbie. In 2017, the cyclone devastated much of the Whitsundays coral reefs and at least half of the Great Barrier Reef island resorts.
We hiked up to the Spion Kop Lookout for sweeping views of the surrounding islands. Afterward, we cooled off with a swim at the jetty.
On the way back to the mainland that afternoon, we spotted a sea turtle and a pod of dolphins!
Back at the marina, we said our farewells. The time had flown by, yet the days had felt wonderfully long. I'm keen to take more sailing trips in the future, though I've learned to pack only the essentials!
