Tom and I wrapped up work on Friday afternoon, ready to kick off the long weekend. Our car was still at the mechanic, so I picked up a rental, said goodbye to the cats, and we hit the road. A couple of hours later, we rolled into Mansfield, a friendly little town at the foothills of Mt. Buller.
At Mansfield Lakeside Holiday Park, we set up our tent right next to Lake Eildon. The place was buzzing with families making the most of the final days of the school holidays. Wildlife was also in good company—kangaroos, koalas, wombats, birds, and even the odd snake. With the fire ban in place, campfires were a no-go.
Once we got the campsite sorted, it was a short drive into town to stock up on supplies and enjoy a delicious dinner at Honcho. We sat outside, soaking in the small-town vibe.
Day 2: Ballooning + Mt. Buller
Saturday was a big day, and it kicked off early. The alarm went off at 4:30 am after a rough night’s sleep. Tom and I fumbled around in the dark, cool morning.We drove into town to start our morning adventure: a hot air balloon ride! We met Tanguy and Maaikee from Goldrush Ballooning, along with the six others joining our flight.
After a short drive to the launch field, Tanguy picked the launch spot based on wind conditions. We spent the next 30 minutes helping inflate the massive 7,000 m3 balloon, starting with cold air before firing up the burners. As the sky began to lighten, the heated air lifted the balloon upright, ready for takeoff.
Climbing into the basket, we got a quick safety briefing before slowly floating off the ground. That first moment was a little unsettling.
We drifted along at a smooth 24 km/h (15 mph), reaching an altitude of around 4,000 ft. Dawn painted the landscape in warm tones, illuminating Mt. Buller and the Victorian Alps.
Tanguy explained the science behind ballooning—how wind speed, temperature, and the Coriolis effect all play a role. Calm morning winds make sunrise the best time to fly, and this area is known for some of the best flying conditions in southeast Australia.
The rising sun cast a golden glow over the alpine landscape. We often see balloons from our house in the mornings (when we're up early enough), but only 11 pilots are qualified to fly over Melbourne since landings are limited to parks.
After an hour in the air, we began our descent. We missed our first landing attempt at a small airstrip due to shifting winds, but Tanguy brought us down gently in a nearby field.
Once on the ground, we deflated and packed up the balloon before learning about a fun tradition—a post-flight prosecco toast!
We headed to Merchant Coffee Roasters for breakfast (and a much-needed caffeine fix). I enjoyed listening to Tanguy and Maaike share their ballooning adventures; their passion really shone through.
With the whole day still ahead of us, we decided to rally for a hike up Mt. Buller. Located in Alpine National Park, Mt. Buller is best known for its ski resort—though it’s becoming increasingly popular with summer sports enthusiasts. Most hikers summit Buller from the ski village, but we took the more rugged West Ridge route—an 11-km out-and-back with about 900 m (3,000 ft) of elevation gain.
We hit the trail at 10:30 am, starting from the end of Doughty Road. The first half was a steady climb through forest.
The second half gave way to exposed ridgelines with a bit of bouldering and loose rock. It wasn’t dangerous, but I would only recommend it for sure-footed hikers—and not on a windy day.
This was my first proper alpine hike in ages, and wow, did it feel good for my soul!
Day 3: Mt. Stirling + Craig's Hut
After a much-needed sleep, Tom and I woke up on Sunday excited to return to the mountains. The weather had been gradually heating up all weekend, so we were keen for an early start.We set off towards Mt. Buller, but turned off on Circuit Road, which circles its neighboring peak, Mt. Sitrling. The dirt road winds through towering eucalyptus trees and dappled sunlight.
Around 9:30 am, we parked at the Telephone Box Junction for our first hike. It was a steady climb up Mt. Stirling, but on much easier terrain than the day before.
Reaching the 1,747 m (5,732 ft) summit, we were rewarded with incredible 360-degree views—better than Buller’s, if you ask me. And once again, there was no one else around. Where was everyone?!
Instead of looping back to the car, we opted for an out-and-back, clocking 11 km with 500 m (1,600 ft) of elevation gain by 12:30 pm.
Back on Circuit Road, we made another stop for a short 3-km hike to Craig's Hut.
The iconic hut was built as a film set in the 1980s. The views were spectacular, but the flies were relentless.
We’d planned to swing by Mt. Buller’s ski village on the way back, but decided a winery stop sounded more appealing. Delatite Winery overlooks rolling hills and vineyards with a selection of tasty vegan wines.
Back at camp, we cleaned up before returning to town for dinner at The Fields.
Day 4: Lake Eildon
On Monday morning, Tom went for a run along the Great Victorian Rail Trail while I went for a paddle on Lake Eildon. Surrounded by national parks and state forests, Lake Eildon holds six times more water than Sydney Harbour and is a haven for water sports.
