I first visited Cairns in March of 2019 as part of my New Zealand trip. My friend Lexi and I signed up for an introductory dive on the reef, but as luck would have it, a passing cyclone made for wet conditions and poor visibility. I was excited to return in better weather and with present company!
Day 1: Airlie Beach to Cairns
On Sunday morning, Tom and I woke up feeling a bit unsteady—3 days on a boat will do that to you! We hired a car and set off on the coastal drive north. While you could get there in 7 hours, we made a few stops. The lush, green landscape felt like a slice of Hawaii, and a quick detour for fresh mango sorbet in Bowen made the journey even sweeter.
On Sunday morning, Tom and I woke up feeling a bit unsteady—3 days on a boat will do that to you! We hired a car and set off on the coastal drive north. While you could get there in 7 hours, we made a few stops. The lush, green landscape felt like a slice of Hawaii, and a quick detour for fresh mango sorbet in Bowen made the journey even sweeter.
Castle Hill Lookout in Townsville |
By evening, we rolled into Cairns and checked into our accommodation at the Crystalbrook Riley. Tom’s parents had already arrived, so we spent the night catching up over dinner at the hotel’s colorful Calypso Club.
Day 2: Kuranda Village
The adventure began on the Kuranda Scenic Railway, which climbs from Cairns at sea level to 327 m (1,073'). The train winds through Barron Gorge National Park, navigating 15 hand-carved tunnels and more than 55 bridges. Opened in 1891, this historic railway line is as much a journey through history as it is through nature. The trip takes about 2 hours each way.
Once in Kuranda, we strolled through the shops before heading to the nearby Rainforestation Nature Park, which includes a variety of experiences like the Army Duck tour. I enjoyed the Pamagirri Aboriginal dance performance and the Dreamtime walk, offering a deeper connection to the region’s rich cultural heritage.
Be sure to hop on the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway on the way back for a different view of the rainforest and Barron Gorge, and if you’re lucky, you might spot a freshwater crocodile lurking in the Barron River below!
Back in Cairns, I took a dip in the hotel pool before meeting everyone for a stroll along the Esplanade. Cairns doesn't have a beach, but the Esplanade is a lively hub that's lined with bars, restaurants, and a saltwater swimming lagoon. We stopped for an Italian dinner at Vitalia's.
Day 3: Reef Magic
On Tuesday, we joined Reef Magic, a tour company that takes visitors on a 90-minute cruise to their exclusive pontoon on the Outer Great Barrier Reef. This part of the reef feels like an endless expanse of ocean—in contrast to the Whitsundays, where tiny islands dot the horizon.
Kathy went diving while the rest of us slipped into our stinger suits and snorkel gear. The coral was vibrant, the visibility was excellent, and the water was teeming with fish.
The highlight was when Tom and I spotted a sea turtle and swam alongside him in awe and wonder—an experience I’ll treasure forever.
Day 4: Mossman Gorge + Palm Cove
On the first day of the new year, I organized a day trip north of Cairns. Just over an hour’s drive, the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre offers the opportunity to engage with the culture of the Kuku Yalanji people. Visitors are invited to explore the ancient Daintree Rainforest—the oldest continually surviving rainforest on Earth—either through a Dreamtime walk or self-guided.
We chose the self-guided walk, though most of the track was unfortunately closed during our visit due to recent vandalism. Despite the limited access, we still appreciated the lush rainforest and tranquil surroundings.
This charming beachside village feels like a hidden gem, with an esplanade lined by towering 500-year-old melaleuca trees and a postcard palm-fringed beach.
Back in Cairns, we dined at Hemingsway's Brewery on the wharf.
Day 5: Green Island
We returned to the reef on Thursday with Big Cat Green Island Reef Cruises. Out of the 300 sand cays scattered across the Great Barrier Reef, Green Island is the only one with a rainforest. Formed 6,000 years ago from sand sediments, coral, and animal deposits, it is teeming with a fascinating array of flora and fauna. Located just 27 km off the mainland, the small island was Queensland’s first island national park.Snorkeling directly off the beach offered a different perspective compared to our previous boat tour. Tom and I discovered some of the most vibrant reefs near the jetty, alive with stingrays and colorful fish. Green Island is also home to sea turtles, reef sharks, and even dugongs.
While the tour company was large and somewhat disorganized, I still enjoyed the trip. Plus, we were incredibly lucky with the weather again.
On Friday morning, Tom and I caught our flight home, excited to see the boys. Our summer holiday balanced the laid-back charm of Airlie Beach with the tropical adventures of Cairns. I’m keen to explore more of Queensland in the future, preferably during the winter to avoid the summer rains and stingers.