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| June 21 - 28 |
After a short morning flight (1.5 hours) from Copenhagen to Brussels and an easy one-hour train ride, Tom and I arrived in Ghent on Saturday. With a 10-trip rail pass in hand (€100 well spent), we stepped off at the beautiful Sint-Pieters station, ready to explore.
The small, friendly city made a strong first impression. It feels older than Copenhagen—quietly elegant, full of natural, unpolished beauty. A bit harder to photograph, perhaps, but no less captivating. It was quite warm, reaching 90°F on our first day (most days hovered in the 70s). Cyclists were out, though not in the same numbers as Copenhagen, and water fountains remained elusive (except in train stations).
We had lunch at Epiphany's Kitchen, where the menu is plant-based by default—brilliant! I was excited to learn that Ghent is often called the veggie capital of Europe.
Afterwards, we climbed the Belfry for sweeping views of the city.
This was followed by visits to St. Nicholas' Church, St. Michael's Church, and St. Bavo's Cathedral.
Later, we enjoyed local beers in the lively market square before grabbing dinner at Plant A Pizza.
We ended the day at St. Michael's Bridge, watching the solstice sunset at 10—sunrise at 5:30 was only an hour later than in Copenhagen. Great stay at the Comic Art Hotel.
Day 2: Gravensteen
We woke to an overcast morning and a light drizzle. Most stores in Ghent are closed on Sunday, but the Sunday markets are in full swing: antiques, books, and flowers. The flower market was buzzing with locals picking up fresh blooms while sipping champagne and enjoying the concert band. It seemed like a weekend ritual.
We woke to an overcast morning and a light drizzle. Most stores in Ghent are closed on Sunday, but the Sunday markets are in full swing: antiques, books, and flowers. The flower market was buzzing with locals picking up fresh blooms while sipping champagne and enjoying the concert band. It seemed like a weekend ritual.
After a casual bite and drink in one of the bustling plazas, we visited the Castle of the Counts, Ghent's medieval castle. This 12th-century fortress in the heart of the city is impressively intact, with stone towers, ramparts, and a suitably dramatic history. The self-guided audio tour comes in both serious and comedic versions—we recommend the comedy!
In the afternoon, we wandered through Graffiti Street and ducked into The Chocolate Maker, a small shop crafting ethical, bean-to-bar chocolate. The espresso bar was divine!
Day 3: Antwerpen
Monday started off overcast and windy. We took the train one hour northeast to Antwerp. A historic port city on the River Scheldt, Antwerp dates back to the Middle Ages and is famous for its Diamond District, where thousands of traders, cutters, and polishers still operate today. The city's rich heritage is reflected in its striking Flemish Renaissance architecture and atmospheric old town.
Monday started off overcast and windy. We took the train one hour northeast to Antwerp. A historic port city on the River Scheldt, Antwerp dates back to the Middle Ages and is famous for its Diamond District, where thousands of traders, cutters, and polishers still operate today. The city's rich heritage is reflected in its striking Flemish Renaissance architecture and atmospheric old town.
We arrived at Antwerpen-Centraal, a railway station so grand it feels more like a cathedral than a transit hub.
In the heart of the city, we explored the Grote Markt—an impressive central square framed by the 16th-century Town Hall and a row of ornate guildhalls.
At the center stands the striking Brabo Fountain, depicting a naked Roman soldier dramatically flinging a severed hand into the river. According to legend, the soldier, Brabo, defeated a giant who had been terrorizing sailors and cutting off their hands. Antwerp's name is said to come from the Flemish words for "hand throwing."
The Cathedral of Our Lady is the largest Gothic church in Belgium, with its tower rising 123 meters (404 ft) over the city.
We also passed by Het Steen—a small, sturdy fortress perched on the river's edge—before catching a free ferry across the Scheldt.
That evening, we returned to Ghent and checked into Hotel Carlton, located near the train station. We'd moved hotels to make day trips easier, but in hindsight, it was probably unnecessary—the extra 40 minutes of transit each day wasn't worth missing out on evenings in the charming city center.
Day 4: Dinant
On Tuesday, we took a day trip to Dinant. Getting there took a bit of coordination—two train transfers and about 2.5 hours southeast from Ghent. The journey became warmer as we moved south, and the landscape shifted to the forested hills and river valleys of the Ardennes. The French-speaking town of Dinant is tucked into dramatic limestone cliffs along the River Meuse. It's the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, inventor of the saxophone.
On Tuesday, we took a day trip to Dinant. Getting there took a bit of coordination—two train transfers and about 2.5 hours southeast from Ghent. The journey became warmer as we moved south, and the landscape shifted to the forested hills and river valleys of the Ardennes. The French-speaking town of Dinant is tucked into dramatic limestone cliffs along the River Meuse. It's the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, inventor of the saxophone.
On the riverbank stands the Gothic-style Collegiate Church of Our Lady.
Above the church, perched on a rocky outcrop, is the Citadel of Dinant. You can reach it via a steep set of stairs or cable car. The fortress now houses a museum and offers sweeping views of the river valley.
Despite its beauty, Dinant has a tragic past. It was occupied by French forces in the 17th and 18th centuries and later devastated during World War I, when German troops massacred 674 civilians on August 23, 1914. It was one of many atrocities during their advance through Belgium, with around 5,000 civilians killed in total. Among the wounded at the Battle of Dinant was a young Charles de Gaulle.
That afternoon, we had a pasta lunch along the river. Our entry to the citadel included a river boat tour, which glides past the jagged Bayard Rock—a towering spire of stone. Legend has it the rock was split by the hoof of Bayard, the magical horse that carried the Four Sons of Aymon as they fled from Charlemagne's army.
Tom and I really enjoyed this day trip that was a bit off the beaten path—not many tourists, which made it feel like a hidden gem.
Day 5: Brugge
On Wednesday, we took a quick 30-minute train ride northwest to Bruges, Belgium's most visited city and often described as a medieval fairy-tale town. With cobbled streets, charming canals, and beautifully preserved architecture, it's easy to see the appeal.
On Wednesday, we took a quick 30-minute train ride northwest to Bruges, Belgium's most visited city and often described as a medieval fairy-tale town. With cobbled streets, charming canals, and beautifully preserved architecture, it's easy to see the appeal.
We wandered through Market Square, climbed the Belfry for panoramic views, admired the historic buildings around Burg Square, and stopped by the picturesque Rosary Quay.
Day 6: Bruxelles
On our final full day, we took a short 30-minute train ride southeast to Brussels Central to explore the capital.
On our final full day, we took a short 30-minute train ride southeast to Brussels Central to explore the capital.
We stopped at Grand-Place, Brussels' opulent central square surrounded by gold-trimmed guildhalls.
We also strolled past the Royal Palace. The King and Queen of Belgium do not reside here; instead, it serves as the King's administrative residence and main workplace, where he conducts official duties and receives visitors.
We were running on low energy by this point—tired, a bit under the weather, and feeling the end of the trip creeping in. Waffle spot, Veganwaf, was a much-needed pick-me-up.
Another 30 minutes by train took us to the Residence Inn Brussels Airport for our final night. It was a nice stay, but surprisingly inconvenient for getting to the airport.
Friday morning, we flew out via Abu Dhabi back to Melbourne—and our boys! It was a fantastic trip, with Ghent as a highlight. Europe never disappoints, but the 14-hour flights from Australia don't get any easier. If there's a next time, I pray it's the Alps.
