Denmark, or Danmark in Danish, is a small but influential Nordic country in northern Europe. Nestled between the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, it occupies the Jutland Peninsula and a scattering of islands, sitting just south of Norway and Sweden and sharing a short southern border with Germany. Much of the country is flat and fertile, shaped by sandy shores and a temperate climate that leans cool but comfortable, with many cloudy days.
With a population of just over six million, Denmark has a high-income economy and some of the world's most progressive social policies. Although it's part of the EU, Denmark uses its own currency (the Danish kroner), and the cost of living is very high. Most Danes speak English as a second language.
But what really sets Denmark apart is its culture—especially the concept of hygge (pronounced "hoo-ga"). More than just a trend, hygge is a way of life: it's about coziness, connection, and finding joy in life's simple moments. It's this emphasis on well-being and community that helps make Denmark one of the happiest countries.
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| June 13 - 21 |
In June, Tom had back-to-back work trips in Seoul and Copenhagen, so I decided to meet him in Denmark and turn it into a holiday. On Friday evening, I hugged the kitties goodbye and made my way to the airport. It's a 14-hour flight from Melbourne to Dubai (I had to brush up on my geography), and even though it was overnight, I find it impossible to sleep sitting up. As we began our descent into Dubai, the pilot mentioned it was 91°F outside—I didn't mind leaving the southern winter behind. After a short layover, it was another seven hours to Copenhagen.
Day 1: København
Later, I met Frank—one of Tom's colleagues from the US office—and his wife Olivia for an 18-km bike spin around town. We hired bikes from the hotel, eager to cycle in such a bike-friendly city.
After a short break, we hopped back on the bikes for another 9 km of bar-hopping. First stop: Carlsberg Brewery, an iconic establishment since 1847. The ticket includes access to the museum of Carlsberg's founding, the art of brewing, and the impact the Jacobsen family and Carlsberg have left on society.
J.C. Jacobsen (founder of Carlsberg Brewery) funded its restoration. The castle chapel miraculously survived the fire and still stands as it did in Christian IV's time. To this day, Danish monarchs are anointed there.
The castle houses the Museum of National History, offering a deep dive into 500 years of Danish history through portraits, sculptures, and furniture. Some rooms still showcase original decorations from before the fire, giving a rare glimpse into Denmark's royal past.
The symmetrical baroque-style gardens are just as impressive. A romantic English-inspired garden sits just to the side, with winding paths and a bath house still occasionally used by the Royal Family.
That evening, Tom and I hired kayaks from Kayak Bar and paddled a one-hour loop through the picturesque canals. We passed tour boats, rental dinghies, and the occasional group of friends enjoying a floating picnic. It was such a fun and different way to see the city.
I found Odense to be quite enchanting. The medieval city center is a photographer's dream, with winding cobblestone lanes and beautifully preserved half-timbered houses that look like they're straight out of a storybook.
That evening, I met up with Olivia for dinner at Atlas Bar. The city seems pretty vegan-friendly, though not to the same degree as Melbourne.
Just down the street is Frederik's Church, also known as the Marble Church. Its copper-green dome aligns perfectly with the palace and stands out dramatically against the skyline. The church has been part of Copenhagen's story since the foundation stone was laid in 1749. Once a day, you can climb to the top for another panoramic view of the city.
No visit to Copenhagen is complete without seeing The Little Mermaid. Perched on a rock at Langelinie Pier, this bronze and granite sculpture was a gift from Carlsberg brewer, Carl Jacobsen, in 1913, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's bittersweet fairytale. It's smaller than you might expect, but it has an undeniable appeal—especially when you catch it between tour groups.
Wandering through Lilla Torg, I found myself in a picture-perfect square lined with cobblestones, timbered buildings, and cozy cafes. Local shops spilled out with handmade goods, giving the area a distinctly small-town feel, despite being Sweden's third-largest city.
From there, I walked through Kungsparken, the town's oldest park, to reach Malmöhus Castle—a 16th-century fortress originally built by King Christian III. Today, it houses a mix of natural history, art, and cultural exhibits.
That evening, Tom and I had dinner at La Posata, a warm and welcoming Italian foccaceria. Afterwards, we met a few of his workmates for drinks at Bootleggers.
Day 7: Rosenborg Slot
Tom took Friday off, so we went sightseeing together. Despite dragging a bit, we were determined to make the most of the bluebird day. We started with a stroll through the Botanical Garden.
Rosenborg Castle is a time capsule of Danish royalty. Built by King Christian IV in the early 1600s as a pleasure palace, it's packed with royal treasures (literally) and historical intrigue.
Afterwards, we stopped by Social Brew for lunch in the plaza, then made our way to the Round Tower. This 17th-century tower is known for its spiralling ramp, which gently winds upward to a 360-degree view. The Observatory at the top still supports astronomy research.
I landed in Copenhagen on Saturday afternoon. Tom surprised me at the airport and we took a quick train ride into the city.
Even though I was running on next to no sleep, the travel fatigue gave way to the thrill of being somewhere new. The capital city is a vibrant coastal city known for its sleek design, cycling culture, and rich history. I was immediately taken by the old-world charm that we just don't have in Australia or the States.
Tom and I checked into the centrally-located Scandic Palace Hotel and later walked to plant-based Atlas Bar. After dinner, we took an evening stroll. With the summer sun rising at 4:30 and setting at 10, there was plenty of light. I quickly readjusted to navigating on the right side of the street!
Copenhagen truly is a bike city. Cyclists are everywhere, gliding through proper bike lanes with ease. With cars heavily taxed, biking really is the norm. But what really surprised me was the lack of helmets. They are mandatory by law in Australia, so it was strange to see so many without.
Day 2: Carlsberg Brewery
Sunday was sunny and warm (60s). Tom left early for the Bridge Run with some of his workmates. With 40,000 runners taking part, this half marathon event crosses the Øresund Bridge, a massive feat of engineering that connects Denmark and Sweden.
In town, it was a quiet morning—most shops don't open until around 10—but I didn't mind. I strolled along Strøget, Copenhagen's main shopping street and one of the longest pedestrian zones in Europe, lined with a mix of high-end brands and small boutiques.
I also ducked down Magstræde, one of the city's oldest streets, full of cobblestones and colorful facades that date back to the Middle Ages.
Eventually, I made my way to Nyhavn, the postcard-perfect canal lined with bright townhouses, historic ships, and bustling cafes.
Later, I met Frank—one of Tom's colleagues from the US office—and his wife Olivia for an 18-km bike spin around town. We hired bikes from the hotel, eager to cycle in such a bike-friendly city.
We passed by several parks and swimming holes, and everyone seemed to be enjoying the summer weekend. We grabbed a bite at some popular food trucks and a drink at the Tipsy Mermaid.
After a short break, we hopped back on the bikes for another 9 km of bar-hopping. First stop: Carlsberg Brewery, an iconic establishment since 1847. The ticket includes access to the museum of Carlsberg's founding, the art of brewing, and the impact the Jacobsen family and Carlsberg have left on society.
Afterwards, we visited ÅBEN, a newer craft brewery. Tom joined us for dinner at Dhaba Kitchen. As we left the restaurant, the weather had turned and we were caught in a full-on downpour.
Day 3: Frederiksborg Slot
Monday was overcast and windy. With Tom back at work, I set off on a solo adventure to Hillerød—about 40 minutes north of the city. The train was packed with commuters, but it didn't take long for the urban setting to give way to open, green countryside.
Frederiksborg Castle was built in the early 1600s by King Christian IV. It's the largest Renaissance castle in Scandinavia and a masterpiece of architecture and craftsmanship. For centuries, it served as a royal residence, until a devastating fire in 1859 destroyed much of the interior.
J.C. Jacobsen (founder of Carlsberg Brewery) funded its restoration. The castle chapel miraculously survived the fire and still stands as it did in Christian IV's time. To this day, Danish monarchs are anointed there.
The castle houses the Museum of National History, offering a deep dive into 500 years of Danish history through portraits, sculptures, and furniture. Some rooms still showcase original decorations from before the fire, giving a rare glimpse into Denmark's royal past.
The symmetrical baroque-style gardens are just as impressive. A romantic English-inspired garden sits just to the side, with winding paths and a bath house still occasionally used by the Royal Family.
Day 4: Odense
On Tuesday, I ventured to Odense—the hometown of beloved writer Hans Christian Andersen. It's a 1.5-hour train ride west from Copenhagen Central Station. Be sure to reserve a seat when booking your ticket.
On Tuesday, I ventured to Odense—the hometown of beloved writer Hans Christian Andersen. It's a 1.5-hour train ride west from Copenhagen Central Station. Be sure to reserve a seat when booking your ticket.
I found Odense to be quite enchanting. The medieval city center is a photographer's dream, with winding cobblestone lanes and beautifully preserved half-timbered houses that look like they're straight out of a storybook.
Fitting since this is where Andersen grew up—and the whole town feels like a tribute to his legacy. Best known for fairy tales like The Little Mermaid and The Ugly Duckling, his spirit lingers in the details: sculptures, museums, even little quotes etched into the pavement.
Day 5: Church of Our Saviour
On Wednesday, I set out on foot to circle back to a few spots that we cycled past on Sunday. One bummer about Copenhagen is the lack of drinking water fountains to fill up reusable bottles.
On Wednesday, I set out on foot to circle back to a few spots that we cycled past on Sunday. One bummer about Copenhagen is the lack of drinking water fountains to fill up reusable bottles.
Freetown Christiania is a self-proclaimed anarchist commune tucked within the Christianshavn neighborhood. Here I visited the Church of Our Saviour, a baroque church built in 1696.
Its distinctive serpentine spire was added in 1752, and the 400-step climb is worth it—windy but breathtaking views in every direction.
The impressive palace square at the Amalienborg Palace has a statue of King Frederik V at its center and four identical palaces surrounding it. These house members of the Danish royal family, including King Frederik X and Queen Mary, and the Amalienborg Museum offers a glimpse into their lives. At noon, you can watch the changing of the Royal Guard as they march from their barracks next to Rosenborg Castle.
Just down the street is Frederik's Church, also known as the Marble Church. Its copper-green dome aligns perfectly with the palace and stands out dramatically against the skyline. The church has been part of Copenhagen's story since the foundation stone was laid in 1749. Once a day, you can climb to the top for another panoramic view of the city.
Kastellet is a star-shaped fortress originally commissioned in 1662. Its grassy ramparts and deep moat now surround peaceful walking paths, old barracks, and even a windmill. It's one of those spots that blends history and beauty so seamlessly you almost forget it was once a military stronghold.
That evening, I joined Tom's work team to see Jon Batiste perform at DR Koncerthuset. His latest project, Beethoven Blues, reimagines iconic Beethoven pieces through the lens of blues, with all the soul and skill he's known for. Jon truly is an incredible musician and human being.
Day 6: Malmö
Thursday brought another grey and blustery morning. I hopped on a train heading east, crossing the remarkable 8-km Øresund Bridge into Sweden. In just 40 minutes, I arrived in Malmö, a city that blends history with sleek modern design and a vibrant, multicultural energy.
Thursday brought another grey and blustery morning. I hopped on a train heading east, crossing the remarkable 8-km Øresund Bridge into Sweden. In just 40 minutes, I arrived in Malmö, a city that blends history with sleek modern design and a vibrant, multicultural energy.
Wandering through Lilla Torg, I found myself in a picture-perfect square lined with cobblestones, timbered buildings, and cozy cafes. Local shops spilled out with handmade goods, giving the area a distinctly small-town feel, despite being Sweden's third-largest city.
From there, I walked through Kungsparken, the town's oldest park, to reach Malmöhus Castle—a 16th-century fortress originally built by King Christian III. Today, it houses a mix of natural history, art, and cultural exhibits.
Just beyond the castle, the waterfront opened up to reveal the Øresund Bridge stretching back to Denmark. Towering over the city skyline is the Turning Torso—a striking, twisting skyscraper designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. At 190 m tall, it was the world's first twisting high-rise and looks more like a modern sculpture than a residential building.
That afternoon, I returned to Copenhagen and visited Christiansborg Palace. Once home to Danish royalty, the palace now houses the Parliament, Supreme Court, and Prime Minister's office. I skipped the tour but took the elevator to the top of the tower, offering sweeping views over the city.
Day 7: Rosenborg Slot
Tom took Friday off, so we went sightseeing together. Despite dragging a bit, we were determined to make the most of the bluebird day. We started with a stroll through the Botanical Garden.
Then we continued to the King's Garden—the oldest royal garden in Denmark. Right next to Rosenborg Castle, the sprawling gardens are lush and full of life, with blooming flowerbeds and locals stretched out on the lawns, enjoying the sunshine.
Rosenborg Castle is a time capsule of Danish royalty. Built by King Christian IV in the early 1600s as a pleasure palace, it's packed with royal treasures (literally) and historical intrigue.
We climbed the spiral staircase and wandered through rooms filled with portraits, ornate furnishings, and centuries-old tapestries depicting Denmark's battles with Sweden. The Knights' Hall was a standout, with its coronation thrones flanked by three life-sized silver lions. Down in the basement, we found the crown jewels.
Afterwards, we stopped by Social Brew for lunch in the plaza, then made our way to the Round Tower. This 17th-century tower is known for its spiralling ramp, which gently winds upward to a 360-degree view. The Observatory at the top still supports astronomy research.
That evening, I grabbed a bite at Vital Foods and soaked up every bit of daylight—after all, it was the eve of the summer solstice. The long, light-filled days was a highlight of the trip.
What a week! All in all, Copenhagen left me with good vibes: progressive, bike-friendly, and full of historic charm. The main thing missing for me is mountains, although I'd like to hike along the white cliffs of Møns Klint on a return visit.
