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| Dec 24 - Jan 7 |
Highly recommended by friends and endlessly popular with Australians, Thailand has recently jumped up on our list. Beautiful landscapes, delicious cuisine, friendly locals, and great value made it an easy choice.
This was our first trip to Southeast Asia, so we planned a little more than usual—booking well ahead for high season, choosing mostly boutique hotels, and saying yes to more tours than we normally would. Most days had a single planned activity (travel days aside), striking a balance between structure and spontaneity.
The heat hit immediately (70–90°F). It’s officially dry season, despite recent rains, with noticeably shorter days than Melbourne’s long summer evenings. We used Grab, the go-to ride-share app in Thailand, for the 40-minute drive to our hotel, Neighbor Phuthon.
Driving is on the left, but the roads are anything but calm—streams of scooters weaving through traffic triggered flashbacks to my trip to Kathmandu. After a long travel day, there was only one plan left: sleep.
Our first breakfast set the bar high: stir-fried noodles with vegetables, fried taro, maize coconut pudding, and lychee juice. Absolutely delicious. Traditionally, Thai breakfasts are smaller versions of lunch or dinner dishes (though Western options are easy to find).
With only a few hours in Bangkok, Tom and I sought an adventure. One thing we noticed immediately: people are warm and friendly—though there’s definitely a tourist hustle, which we quickly encountered and decided to roll with. Enter our first tuk-tuk ride: a motorized three-wheeled taxi that delivered us, somewhat breathlessly, to a longtail boat canal tour.
The canals were hot, busy, and polluted, with enormous Asian water monitor lizards sunning themselves along the banks. The highlight was the towering 69-meter golden Buddha at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen. I was struck by the contrasts—ultramodern skylines rising beside quiet canal-side communities, anchored by iconic temples like Wat Arun, Wat Pho, and Wat Phra Kaew.
The #1 thing to do in Bangkok is visit the Grand Palace. Built in 1782 by King Rama I, it served as the official royal residence for more than 150 years and remains a powerful symbol of Thai history, monarchy, and Buddhism. Within its vast, walled grounds sits the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), one of the most sacred sites in Thailand.
Lunch was at Veganerie. Tap water in Thailand isn’t safe to drink. While bottled water is often "included" with tours and hotels, it’s rarely enough—especially in the hot climate. I quickly learned to always carry water, snacks, and cash.
Our first stop was Wachirathan Waterfall, meaning "Diamond Creek." At 80 meters tall, it’s a powerful, mist-filled cascade framed by dense rainforest. The park’s waterfalls are fed by rainfall and mountain streams from the misty cloud forests near the summit.
We continued up to the summit at 2,565 meters (8,415 feet). Clouds obscured the view below—arriving early matters.
Our next stop was the King and Queen Pagodas—twin stupas built to honor the 60th birthdays of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) and Queen Sirikit. Set among manicured gardens, the pagodas feature intricate mosaic work and sweeping views across the mountains, blending spirituality, royalty, and landscape in a uniquely Thai way.
The walk ends in Mae Klang Luang village, where we stopped to sample locally grown coffee at the Pati Non roasting plant. My favorite was a dark roast Arabica coffee and a cascara tea made from coffee bean shells, said to be good for memory and joints.
Wat Phra That Doi Suthep sits high above Chiang Mai and is one of northern Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist temples. Founded in 1383 by King Keu Naone to house a relic believed to be the Buddha’s shoulder bone, the site is steeped in legend. A sacred white elephant is said to have carried the relic up the mountain, stopping where the temple now stands. Today, visitors climb 306 steps to reach the golden chedi, rewarded with sweeping views across the city and a profound sense of place rooted in Lanna culture.
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At dawn, the temple was quiet aside from chanting monks. Soft, golden morning light spread across Chiang Mai as the city slowly woke below us.
Wat Pha Lat, hidden in the jungle below Doi Suthep, was my favorite. An ancient, moss-covered temple built in the 14th century, it once served as a resting place for pilgrims and now feels like a secret sanctuary. Water trickles through stone channels, trees reclaim old structures, and the atmosphere is worlds away from the busier sites. If you’re visiting independently, check out the Monk’s Trail.
Wat Umong is the unique "Tunnel Temple." Built in the late 13th century by King Mangrai for a revered monk, its underground brick tunnels were designed for quiet meditation. The forest setting, roosters, and trees etched with Buddhist proverbs give the place a gentle, contemplative feel.
We were back in town around 10:00 am and keen to explore. Chiang Mai ("New City"), founded in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, is northern Thailand’s cultural heart. Its walled old city is dotted with historic temples, blending ancient traditions with a modern expat energy.
We stumbled upon Wat Chedi Luang, a 14th-century temple known for its massive, partially ruined chedi. It was once the tallest structure in the Lanna Kingdom and former home of the Emerald Buddha. Damaged by an earthquake in the 16th century, it remains one of the city’s most significant landmarks.
Elephant tourism in Thailand is evolving, but it’s complicated. Many places have moved away from riding, yet still allow bathing, feeding, or touching, which can be stressful and unethical. ChangChill takes a different approach, prioritizing observation over interaction. Chang means elephant in Thai.
Set high in the mountains about 1.5 hours from the city, the drive followed familiar roads from the past two days. Our guide, Big, was endlessly enthusiastic and knowledgeable.
The sanctuary is home to four female elephants, including a mother–daughter pair. All are over 30 years old (elephants have human lifespans) and were previously used in logging operations in Thailand and Myanmar. Asian elephants are noticeably smaller than their African counterparts, with distinct physical and behavioral differences.
The elephants follow a natural daily rhythm: foraging in the morning, moving into the shade as the day heats up, and later enjoying sugarcane and bananas by the river. Each elephant has a dedicated mahout, a lifelong caretaker, and a veterinarian lives on site.
That evening, we headed to the Sunday walking street market. It was packed!
Day 1: Melbourne to Bangkok
On Christmas Eve, we left the cats in the capable hands of our house sitters and headed to the airport for an early-afternoon flight. Nine hours later, we touched down in Bangkok at 7:30 pm—four hours behind Melbourne.
The heat hit immediately (70–90°F). It’s officially dry season, despite recent rains, with noticeably shorter days than Melbourne’s long summer evenings. We used Grab, the go-to ride-share app in Thailand, for the 40-minute drive to our hotel, Neighbor Phuthon.
Driving is on the left, but the roads are anything but calm—streams of scooters weaving through traffic triggered flashbacks to my trip to Kathmandu. After a long travel day, there was only one plan left: sleep.
Day 2: Bangkok
Thursday was Christmas Day. Thailand isn’t a Christian country, so I was surprised by the amount of festive music and decorations that popped up in tourist areas.
With only a few hours in Bangkok, Tom and I sought an adventure. One thing we noticed immediately: people are warm and friendly—though there’s definitely a tourist hustle, which we quickly encountered and decided to roll with. Enter our first tuk-tuk ride: a motorized three-wheeled taxi that delivered us, somewhat breathlessly, to a longtail boat canal tour.
The canals were hot, busy, and polluted, with enormous Asian water monitor lizards sunning themselves along the banks. The highlight was the towering 69-meter golden Buddha at Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen. I was struck by the contrasts—ultramodern skylines rising beside quiet canal-side communities, anchored by iconic temples like Wat Arun, Wat Pho, and Wat Phra Kaew.
The #1 thing to do in Bangkok is visit the Grand Palace. Built in 1782 by King Rama I, it served as the official royal residence for more than 150 years and remains a powerful symbol of Thai history, monarchy, and Buddhism. Within its vast, walled grounds sits the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew), one of the most sacred sites in Thailand.
We visited during a mourning period for Queen Sirikit, the Queen Mother of Thailand—a deeply respected figure remembered for her charity work and support of rural communities.
My advice? Go early, observe dress codes, and bring cash for entry.
Bangkok was the most visited city in the world in 2025. We barely scratched the surface, and while it would've been exciting to experience the city at night, we were equally happy to pass through on our way north.
We grabbed a ride to Don Mueang Airport for our 4:30 pm flight, traveling one hour north to Chiang Mai. AirAsia delays meant we arrived later than expected, but the sunset from the plane was spectacular. Northern Thailand was instantly cooler (60–80°F), and a 10-minute Grab ride brought us to Gord Neu Boutique House.
Day 3: Doi Inthanon National Park
On Friday, we joined a full-day tour of Doi Inthanon National Park—home to Thailand’s highest peak and rich biodiversity (+300 bird species). A van picked us up at 7:00 am for the two-hour drive southwest of the city.Our first stop was Wachirathan Waterfall, meaning "Diamond Creek." At 80 meters tall, it’s a powerful, mist-filled cascade framed by dense rainforest. The park’s waterfalls are fed by rainfall and mountain streams from the misty cloud forests near the summit.
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| One of the best I've seen |
We continued up to the summit at 2,565 meters (8,415 feet). Clouds obscured the view below—arriving early matters.
Our next stop was the King and Queen Pagodas—twin stupas built to honor the 60th birthdays of King Bhumibol Adulyadej (Rama IX) and Queen Sirikit. Set among manicured gardens, the pagodas feature intricate mosaic work and sweeping views across the mountains, blending spirituality, royalty, and landscape in a uniquely Thai way.
In the afternoon, we trekked the Pha Dok Siew Nature Trail, a 2.5-kilometer downhill walk run by the local Karen community with mandatory guides to support conservation.
The trail passed waterfalls, terraced rice fields, coffee plantations, avocado trees, and even a green viper. Golden hour light filtered through the valley as we descended.
The walk ends in Mae Klang Luang village, where we stopped to sample locally grown coffee at the Pati Non roasting plant. My favorite was a dark roast Arabica coffee and a cascara tea made from coffee bean shells, said to be good for memory and joints.
During the return drive, the mountains were silhouetted against a beautiful sunset as traffic grew heavier approaching the city.
Day 4: Wat Phra That Doi Suthep
Tom and I were up early on Saturday for a 5:00 am temple tour, winding our way up the Doi Suthep mountains in the dark. The half-hour ascent was shared with fearless cyclists already climbing toward the summit. Wat Phra That Doi Suthep sits high above Chiang Mai and is one of northern Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist temples. Founded in 1383 by King Keu Naone to house a relic believed to be the Buddha’s shoulder bone, the site is steeped in legend. A sacred white elephant is said to have carried the relic up the mountain, stopping where the temple now stands. Today, visitors climb 306 steps to reach the golden chedi, rewarded with sweeping views across the city and a profound sense of place rooted in Lanna culture.
\At dawn, the temple was quiet aside from chanting monks. Soft, golden morning light spread across Chiang Mai as the city slowly woke below us.
Wat Pha Lat, hidden in the jungle below Doi Suthep, was my favorite. An ancient, moss-covered temple built in the 14th century, it once served as a resting place for pilgrims and now feels like a secret sanctuary. Water trickles through stone channels, trees reclaim old structures, and the atmosphere is worlds away from the busier sites. If you’re visiting independently, check out the Monk’s Trail.
Wat Umong is the unique "Tunnel Temple." Built in the late 13th century by King Mangrai for a revered monk, its underground brick tunnels were designed for quiet meditation. The forest setting, roosters, and trees etched with Buddhist proverbs give the place a gentle, contemplative feel.
We were back in town around 10:00 am and keen to explore. Chiang Mai ("New City"), founded in 1296 as the capital of the Lanna Kingdom, is northern Thailand’s cultural heart. Its walled old city is dotted with historic temples, blending ancient traditions with a modern expat energy.
We stumbled upon Wat Chedi Luang, a 14th-century temple known for its massive, partially ruined chedi. It was once the tallest structure in the Lanna Kingdom and former home of the Emerald Buddha. Damaged by an earthquake in the 16th century, it remains one of the city’s most significant landmarks.
As evening fell, we wandered through the night bazaars—lively markets filled with food stalls, music, and handmade goods. Northern Thai street food is tasty and incredibly affordable at 80 baht per dish (US $2.50). However, throughout our trip, I found it challenging to order vegan food outside vegan cafes due to language and cultural barriers.
Day 5: ChangChill Elephant Sanctuary
On Sunday, we visited ChangChill elephant sanctuary for a half-day tour—my favorite day. Elephant tourism in Thailand is evolving, but it’s complicated. Many places have moved away from riding, yet still allow bathing, feeding, or touching, which can be stressful and unethical. ChangChill takes a different approach, prioritizing observation over interaction. Chang means elephant in Thai.
Set high in the mountains about 1.5 hours from the city, the drive followed familiar roads from the past two days. Our guide, Big, was endlessly enthusiastic and knowledgeable.
The sanctuary is home to four female elephants, including a mother–daughter pair. All are over 30 years old (elephants have human lifespans) and were previously used in logging operations in Thailand and Myanmar. Asian elephants are noticeably smaller than their African counterparts, with distinct physical and behavioral differences.
The elephants follow a natural daily rhythm: foraging in the morning, moving into the shade as the day heats up, and later enjoying sugarcane and bananas by the river. Each elephant has a dedicated mahout, a lifelong caretaker, and a veterinarian lives on site.
Here the elephants can just be elephants. No performances, no posing, no pressure. Just space, time, and respect.
That evening, we headed to the Sunday walking street market. It was packed!
