Wednesday, January 7, 2026

Southern Thailand

Day 6: Ao Nang
On Monday afternoon, Tom and I flew two hours south from Chiang Mai to Krabi, a province on southern Thailand's west coast (on the Andaman Sea, the eastern edge of the Indian Ocean).


From the airport, a 40-minute Grab ride took us to Ao Nang, a lively beach town with limestone cliffs, night markets, and easy access to island hopping.

 

Southern Thailand brought a noticeable climate shift—hot and humid (75–85°F), leaving everything perpetually damp.

After checking into Sea Seeker, we did exactly what the day called for: pool time and rest. Unfortunately, a scratchy throat I’d been ignoring the day before tipped into a full-blown virus. 

Day 7: Railay
On Tuesday we headed to Railay. This car-free peninsula is only accessible by boat and is famous for its dramatic limestone cliffs, turquoise water, and world-class rock climbing. With its laid-back, island-like feel, Railay has been drawing backpackers and climbers since the 1970s.

 

We caught the first longtail boat from Ao Nang Beach at 8:00 am, motoring across the water in 15 minutes. Arriving early made all the difference—Railay West was calm and quiet, the cliffs glowing softly in the morning light.


From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to Phra Nang Beach, where dusky leaf monkeys lounged in the trees overhead.


While I swam and took photos, Tom tackled the viewpoint and lagoon hike—a short but vertical climb. 


We regrouped back at Railay West to refuel and rehydrate. Southern Thai food reflects Indian and Malay influences, with richer spices and coconut-based curries.


We decided it was too hot to kayak, and instead took a short hike over to Tonsai Beach, which was less crowded.


We’d hoped to stay for sunset, but between Tom’s heat exhaustion and my lingering illness, our Railay day trip became a bit derailed. We hopped on a boat back to Ao Nang for a restful evening.


Railay delivered some of the most stunning scenery of the entire trip. It's perfect for a beach holiday, whereas Ao Nang is more convenient for exploring the wider Krabi region.

Day 8: Hong Islands
On New Year's Eve, we were up early for a six-hour private longtail boat tour of the Hong Islands—a trip highlight. The boat departed at 6:00 am, motoring quietly into the dark. At dawn, the sea softened into layers of silhouetted islands.


We stopped at Koh Hong first. 



The highlight here is a short but worthwhile viewpoint hike.



Afterwards, we cruised through the emerald waters of Hong Lagoon.

 

At Koh Lao Lading, jellyfish drifted through the shallows—fortunately not the dangerous types.



Pakbia Island was popular for snorkeling and became noticeably busier as the morning went on. 



The tour finished around midday and we rode from the pier back to the hotel in a Sam Lor sidecar. 

That evening, our hotel hosted a lively New Year’s Eve celebration—lanterns, fireworks, and a buffet dinner. Back home, Louie and Sylvio made it to 2026 first!


Day 9: Khao Sok National Park
On New Year's Day, Tom and I checked out of the hotel and were picked up at 8:00 am for the start of a three-day tour of Khao Sok National Park. Our small group included a lovely Bavarian couple, Fabian and Theresa, who quickly became easy travel companions.

The 2.5-hour journey north was broken up with a few stops. First, we visited a pineapple garden, surrounded by vast plantations of palm and rubber trees—crops that dominate much of southern Thailand’s landscape. 

 

From there, we continued to Tha Pom Klong Song Nam, also known as the "Two-Water Canal." This protected mangrove forest is where freshwater and saltwater meet, creating strikingly clear, turquoise water that reveals tangled tree roots below. 


Our next stop was Wat Mahathat Wachiramongkol, a striking temple dominated by a 95-meter golden pagoda built in 2002 to honor King Vajiralongkorn. It's design was inspired by India’s Mahabodhi Temple.

   

Khao Sok National Park, in Surat Thani Province, protects one of the world’s oldest rainforests. It's home to towering limestone karsts, caves, waterfalls, and Cheow Lan Lake. Its biodiversity includes elephants, tigers, gibbons, hornbills, and even the giant Rafflesia flower.


We arrived at our simple but charming jungle bungalow in the early afternoon.

 

After lunch, we visited a viewpoint of the park, then headed out on a 7-kilometer jungle trek along the Bang Hua Rad Nature Trail.

 

We spotted massive spiders, a venomous snake, frogs, hornbills, and two types of monkeys—long-tailed macaques and langurs. As night fell, temperatures dipped slightly cooler than in Ao Nang.

Day 10: Khao Sok National Park
By Friday, my sore throat was finally easing, though I was still deeply fatigued. After breakfast, we headed out for a morning canoe safari on the river. I learned that bamboo is used for rafts, shelters, and even cooking rice.

 

We left the jungle bungalow that afternoon and drove to the Khao Phang Suspension Bridge. From the bridge, we had views across lush rainforest and the heart-shaped mountain, Khao Rup Hua Jai.

 

From there, we traveled to Cheow Lan Lake. This vast, emerald reservoir—created by the Ratchaprapha Dam—has towering limestone cliffs rising straight out of the water and dense jungle wrapping around hidden bays. Very Jurassic Park.



A longtail boat took us across the lake to our floating raft house, where we had free time to kayak. The food and accommodation here were a low point of the trip, though I was feeling lousy.


As evening fell, we headed out for a boat safari, spotting monkeys and hornbills before a full moon rose over the lake.


Day 11: Khao Sok National Park
Saturday began with a morning boat safari, where we spotted langurs moving deftly through the treetops.


After breakfast, we set off by boat to Pra Kai Phet Cave. The limestone cave is compact but striking, with muddy floors and delicate formations that resemble coral or fine strands of hair hanging from the ceiling. At around 100 meters long, it’s an accessible introduction to the cave systems around Cheow Lan Lake.



After lunch, we returned to Ao Nang and stayed the night at Sea Side, close to the ferry terminal. 


Day 12: Koh Phi Phi
On Sunday, Tom and I took a two-hour scenic ferry ride to Koh Phi Phi Don.


The Phi Phi Islands are known for dramatic limestone cliffs and turquoise waters. Once a quiet paradise, the islands now attract tourists for diving, partying, and day trips from Phuket and Krabi.


  
After checking into Panmanee Hotel and grabbing lunch, we enjoyed some downtime before a sunset hike

 

Along the trail, we encountered several cats and one overweight monkey. 


We paid the extra 30 baht to reach Viewpoint 3, which was quieter than Viewpoint 2, with sweeping views over the islands. 


For dinner, we stumbled upon the popular Garlic 1992 Restaurant.

 

Day 13: Koh Phi Phi
Monday began with another 6:00 am private longtail boat tour. The conditions were windy and bumpy, but the sunrise was spectacular.


Our first stop was Maya Bay, a famous cove on Phi Phi Leh made iconic by the Leonardo DiCaprio film, The Beach. Strict rules now limit visitors and prohibit swimming to protect the environment after years of overtourism. From the soft sand, we spotted several baby blacktip reef sharks.

 
Afterwards, we snorkeled just outside Maya Bay at Loh Sama Bay, surrounded by colorful fish and small jellyfish.


Our next stop was emerald Pileh Lagoon.


We skipped Monkey Bay in favor of spending more time at Long Beach on Koh Phi Phi Don.



A final off-shore snorkel was the perfect way to cap off the tour.

 

Day 14: Krabi to Melbourne
On Tuesday, Tom and I took an 8:45 am speedboat back to Ao Nang—faster but less scenic and comfortable than the ferry (but thankfully not a windy day). From there, a Grab ride took us to Krabi Airport for a quick flight to Kuala Lumpur, followed by a long layover and a 7.5-hour overnight flight to Melbourne. We arrived home Wednesday morning, very tired but excited to see the boys.

This wasn’t my favorite trip because I spent much of it sick, but the scenery, temples, and wildlife still made it a meaningful experience—and for that, I am grateful.